Alan Geaam has given himself the means to create a great table. For he is not only a chef, as we all know, but also a shrewd entrepreneur who creates a dynamic around himself, and a perfect host who knows how to welcome and charm his guests. His home on Rue Lauriston has become a must-see salon, showcasing a refined, souvenir-filled version of Levantine, and particularly Lebanese, cuisine. With a remarkable mastery of French-style juices and sauces (his reduced juice on pigeon is a marvel of balance), the chef offers as many tributes as winks to his origins, while remaining subtle and gourmet. In the appetizers (black falafel, tourteau en kadaïf...), in the highly addictive zaatar olive oil brioche, and throughout a sequence that leaves little choice but to be guided: beet, pomegranate and tuna tartar potato fritter and Kristal caviar, in a pretty graphic hue, large shish taouk-style langoustine, excellent bisque in a tangy, spicy emulsion, tempura tongs, pigeon de Racan, impeccably cooked, with a sausage-like thigh spiced with kefta, before desserts that are a little less enticing, but technically accomplished: strawberry-rhubarb for one, honey-citrus ribot milk, in a fine work on textures. A fine, cutting-edge wine cellar, with a more natural approach, and an outstanding welcome from a young, motivated team.