Pleine Terre and even underground, as you have to go down to the basement to discover Jimmy Desrivières' fine seasonal cuisine, in this necessarily blind room, but with lighting that is fortunately well-designed not to make you feel confined. With a penchant for noble products (langoustines in carpaccio, roast sea bass, Sisteron lamb, wild red tuna...), the dishes of Hélène Darroze's former pupil meet the expectations of the neighborhood (a certain sobriety tinged with a touch of luxury) in a style that's a little too academic, however, to hope to aim for the top floor. Well-oiled service, perfectly calibrated cellar.