Orbys

36000 CHÂTEAUROUX

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

4 PHOTOS

Chef Adam Blondeau

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Local

Gault&Millau's review

14/20

Chef's Restaurant The product: instructions for use. Like Perec and his stylistic exercises in which words bend under the rule, Adam Blondeau plays with the product in the same spirit of creative constraint. Sometimes single-product, sometimes strictly local or totally plant-based, the compositions always have a playful side that an ultra-technical production makes quite enjoyable. Looking at the 25-year-old chef's career path, it's easy to see that his creativity and mastery are no accident: experiences in the four corners of France, the mountains with Marc Veyrat, the sea with Christopher Coutanceau and Provence with Glenn Viel. Back on his home turf, the Castelroussin has taken up the challenge of a grand table where he displays a harmonious sum of his travels: an eight-course evening menu featuring a pretty pomme dauphine and three-year-aged Valençay grated cheese like a gougère, a Brenne taco and slightly acidic fermented vegetables - all in balance -, an aesthetically pleasing declination of Jerusalem artichoke in purée, pickles, jelly and confit, mustard seeds in pickles. The potato monoproduct is a very fine exercise, full of textures, roasted, emulsified, caramelized and juiced, preceding a Berry rose and beet tortellini, goat's milk emulsion, a trompe-l'oeil of breaded lentil sausage covered with verbena sabayon, roasted bread condiment; followed by Racan pigeon, puréed gnocchi and crispy squash, truffle and blueberry pigeon juice reduction. Dessert takes us back to childhood, with a version of barley cereal rice pudding as a bowl of cereal, cream and honey. Although the wine cellar is still a little short, the selection has a lot going for it: Domaine Duseigneur, Terrasse d'Élise, Denis Jamain, Joseph de Maistre, Clos des grives and a few foreign wines. Single menu at 68 €.

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