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37-39 rue Boissière
75016 Paris
France

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Loiseau du Temps

25000 BESANÇON
13/20
 Chef's Restaurant
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© JonathanThévenet
© JonathanThévenet
© Jean-Charles Sexe
4 PHOTOS
Chef Léo Pujol
Cooking French | Traditional
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
28 € to 38 €
Gault&Millau's review
13/20
Chef's Restaurant Following in the footsteps of Beaune and Dijon, the Maison Loiseau has created a new link with Bisontin in this former grain market. Housed behind the listed 18th-century façade, on the edge of the Place de la Révolution, the spacious dining room combines past and present, with ribbed vaults, wooden slats, pistachio walls and a wine cellar. Blanche Loiseau, a devotee of market cuisine, has left her post in Japan to make way for Léo Pujol. A nod to her father's cooking, the Montmirey-la-Ville snails with garlic purée and parsley coulis are beautifully light, with no fat whatsoever, apart from that provided by the croutons. However, we preferred the beet, whose concentrated, salt-crusted flavors were a perfect match for the ripened goat's cheese and blackberry. As for the chicken from Gy, served as a jambonnette with a delicious morel mushroom stuffing, we found its flesh a little firm, while the brook trout from Moulin de Pierre, although accompanied by an amusing spaghetti squash gratin, seemed a little distorted by overcooking. The highlight of the meal? After the one-toque dishes, we were delighted with the three-toque desserts, structured, worthy of a great pastry chef and served on a cart presented to each table. The meal ends on a high note with a completely revisited pear tart, featuring a fresh sweet pastry base, a rich vanilla bean cream, and poached pears with walnut caramel. Another highlight is the cellar composed by Éric Goettelmann, a veritable anthology of Burgundy.
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Address Place de la Révolution
25000 Besançon
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Léo Pujol Chef
Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Léo Pujol Chef

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