While the menu doesn't change much, Thomas Fridlund's signature dishes are a pleasure to return to time and again, for their comforting timelessness and respect for seasonality. The Ducasse School alumnus knows his grammar as well as his taste for good produce, which he stages in plates based around smoked cooking: pork ribs with maple syrup, grenailles confit and corn cream, beef effiloché smoked for fifteen hours over a wood fire, mashed potatoes and pan-fried mushrooms. The hen egg starter is a signature dish, cooked to 64°C, with mushroom velouté, roasted butternut, bacon cappuccino, mushroom pickles and parmesan crumble. Menu €54.