A legendary spot, not just because it hosts the jurors for the Goncourt and Renaudot prizes every year, or because one of the opening scenes of Gérard Oury’s *Le Corniaud* was filmed there, but because, since its inception, it has always championed and showcased home-style cooking, evolving cautiously and keeping a safe distance from trends—as if out of wariness, or rather so as not to alienate a business clientele who come to seal a lucrative deal in one of the private dining rooms. The weekly special, priced just under the symbolic €50 mark, is an excellent choice (on Tuesdays, it’s cordon bleu, 24-month-aged Comté, and baby spinach), but it’s on the à la carte menu that you’ll find the noble John Dory with its multicolored tomato tartlet and the must-try beef tartare, prepared right in front of the customer (just like the crêpes Suzette, which are, of course, prepared in the dining room and are all the rage). The service is efficient and never obsequious, and the wine cellar is very well-stocked, with a highly diverse selection by the glass (about thirty varieties).