Benèze

35000 RENNES

12.5/20
Gourmet Restaurant

Cooking French

Gault&Millau's review

12.5/20

Gourmet Restaurant Être benèze... To be comfortable and happy! It's an expression that smells of the sweet province, the countryside, and harks back to bygone days. It's the name chosen by Pierre Eon - who has left his establishment on rue Nantaise - and his associates and accomplices. It's a mischievous pirouette, given that this new place is, on the contrary, very trendy and very urban! But the brand's aim is nonetheless spot-on, since the clientele is clearly... very comfortable. This late XVIIᵉ century mansion has undergone a highly successful total renovation. The restaurant occupies part of it. You enter through a small, elegant cobbled courtyard, in which a barrel takes pride of place, rightly suggesting that wine is an integral part of the place. The 60 or so covers are divided into three areas (with stonework, beams and an old fireplace). The large, open-plan kitchen provides stool seating for ten or so guests, who can get right up close to the action! This is certainly a fine architectural and decorative achievement. As for the cuisine, it can be enjoyed in total freedom, as it comes in a variety of "petits plats", to be shared or not, which can be ordered to suit your taste and appetite: "Light potato/hareng/croûton", "tataki de boeuf/avocat/mayo piment/pomme", "jarret de porc croustillant/ravigote", "curry vert/coco/crevettes sauvages/patate douce"... It's playful, invigorating, tinged with exoticism and sometimes uneven. Attractive wine list: well-constructed organic/biodynamic: saint-véran from Pascal Renaud, chinon from domaine de l'Arpenty, marsannay from domaine Collotte, corse from domaine Mondange, pic-saint-loup from Mas Peyrolle... Punchy, friendly service!

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