Probably one of the most scrutinized addresses of recent months, this metamorphosis of Marseille's emblematic Épuisette restaurant into Auffo under the direction of media darling Coline Faulquier. The young chef has made the place her own, with a personal and coherent artistic vision that has an undeniable charm, this purity in materials and motifs, natural tones and absent decoration, furniture with simplified lines, leaving all the room for the spectacle of the shoreline, the rock scratched by salt, sun and water, the Frioul islands and the Château d'If on the horizon, the abyssal blue of the Mediterranean everywhere. There's something ethereal about this totally calm ambience, in contrast to the fiery nature that besieges us, and in which the chef unfurls a tamed cuisine, both precise and delicate, perhaps sometimes a little too inoffensive. We discover a lovely work on celery as a flower, with a vegetable juice very well brought out, like a meat juice, and a smoked mackerel under a playful, airy mousse. The monkfish is quite well cooked, presented with an extraction of aniseed herbs, pink berries, an elegant beurre blanc and a carpaccio of naturally colored potatoes. The dessert is visually very successful, with a creamy saffron de Provence base, 64% Valrhona Caraïbe chocolate and chocolate-safran mousse, crunchy streusel. The cellar doesn't take many risks, with a very fine selection of the best: Hauvette, Revelette, Tempier, la Vougeraie, DRC, Bouzereau, Vernay, Gripa, Beaucastel, Trimbach, Ganevat, Dagueneau, Joly, and last but not least, a very fine vertical of Château Simone. Very good service, which could perhaps do with a little more relaxation.