Why do we eat oysters at Christmas?

Oysters, scallops, langoustines, lobsters and langoustes... Seafood is often the guest of honor at Christmas dinner. While this culinary tradition may be explained by seasonality, it's not the only reason. Already appreciated in ancient Greece, mollusks have only recently found their place on our festive tables. Nadine Crétin, an anthropologist specializing in religious festivals, and Loïc Bienassis, a historian of food and culinary heritage at the University of Tours, explain.

An expensive but affordable dish

As we all know, oysters have their seasons. For example, did you know that it's best to avoid eating them during the breeding season (May to August)? On the other hand, it's in winter that their taste and texture are at their best, giving them a place of choice on our Christmas tables, but that's not the only reason for their success.

For anthropologist Nadine Crétin, we need to look at long-standing traditions, such as the lean meal before Christmas mass, or habits from the East. " In Alsace, the Christmas meal had to include the elements of water, earth and sky. For example, the element of water often took the form of stuffed carp," she explains. Then, over time, the habit of eating oysters, even if expensive, became widespread. " This standardization of lifestyles, and therefore of the Christmas meal, took place around 1950, after the Second World War ," she adds.

For Loïc Bienassis, the explanation also lies in the cost of the food. " I think, above all, that they became Christmas dishes," says the food historian. In his view, for a product to be a festive delicacy, it has to be expensive enough to remain exceptional, yet affordable. Oysters, scallops and langoustines are perfect examples. However, not all luxury foods have been able to become Christmas foods, even those in the "expensive but affordable" zone. So, for a product to become a Christmas delicacy, it has to fit into this category, while also being available in sufficient quantity to meet increased demand at a particular time of year.

Three oyster farmers where to find oysters for Christmas

In the mood for some good oysters this festive season? Here are a few good places to find them.

Veules Gallot oysters

The Veules oyster is a treat for oyster lovers. It is the first Seine-Maritime oyster to be grown in the open sea on the Veules foreshore. The Gallot family can be found on the beach every weekend and at local markets (Luneray, Saint-Valery-en-Caux) and the beach at Veules-les-Roses.

• Rue de la Mer, 76980 Veules-les-Roses. Tel: 02 35 97 29 98
• www.facebook.com/huitres-de-veules-gallot

ETS François Caillaud

Produced naturally, François and Maryse Caillaud's oysters have a nutty, " terroir " taste. The two oyster farmers invite you to come and discover them at the markets in Les Sables-d'Olonne, or to taste them at Les Dunes from April to September.

• Les Dunes de La Guittière, 85440 Talmont Saint Hilaire.
  Tel: 06 03 94 48 11

Les Parcs de l'Impératrice - Joël Dupuch

The sixth generation of oyster farmers, Joël Dupuch offers you fine oysters, lightly-fleshed and full of iodine, as well as "Perles", the fullest oysters, with rich, delicate flavors. To make sure you don't miss a thing, don't forget to call ahead.

• 5 impasse de la Conche - Les Jacquets, 33970 Lège Cap Ferret Tel 06 50 74 51 51
• www.parcsdelimperatrice.fr

Did you know that an oyster farmer found three pearls in his oysters in the same year? If you too dream of finding a pearl in an oyster, here's where you can buy your pearl basket!