Where can I find good pasta alla carbonara?

The ultimate comfort food, pasta alla carbonara is one of the cornerstones of Italian cuisine. According to legend, it was created by the carbonari—the charcoal burners of the forests of Lazio and the Apennines—who cooked with ingredients rich in protein, carbohydrates, and fat. Another version of the story suggests that American soldiers in 1944 combined their rations of bacon and powdered eggs with local pasta and cheese. Roman chefs then refined this basic recipe. In any case, to make carbonara by the book, you need eggs, guanciale (pork jowl), Pecorino Romano (sheep’s milk cheese), and a generous amount of black pepper. Its creaminess owes nothing to crème fraîche—even though, in the 1980s, a version made with cream briefly surfaced—but rather to the “mantecatura”: a delicate emulsion of egg yolks, grated cheese, the fat from the guanciale, and the pasta cooking water. Whether a contemporary take or a perfectly executed classic, carbonara never fails to impress.

The quintessential version: Ida in Paris by Denny Imbroisi

Here, carbonara isn’t just a dish; it’s a childhood memory brought to life by the chef. The recipe stays true to Roman traditions with a few subtle touches. The guanciale is prepared in two ways: first, cut into crispy lardons, and then finely sliced like a veil and placed over the still-warm pasta, where it melts delicately. The sauce is made from an emulsion of egg yolks whisked over the pasta water—like a sabayon—combined with guanciale fat and a duo of cheeses: the classic Pecorino Romano, softened by a hint of Grana Padano. A signature dish where tradition is reinvented with precision. Unforgettable.

• Price: €24
• See the Gault&Millau review of Ida by Denny Imbroisi (2 toques)

The most elegant: Emporio Armani Caffè in Paris by Massimo Tringali

Beneath its apparent simplicity, this carbonara is executed with great precision. The al dente spaghetti is coated in a delicate sauce made from free-range eggs sourced from a mobile farm in the Perche region and 36-month-aged Pecorino Romano. The Calabrian guanciale, both melt-in-your-mouth and crispy, adds a touch of indulgence. As for the pepper, it is toasted according to tradition, enhancing the aromas. A carbonara of remarkable smoothness and profound indulgence, where the quality of the ingredients speaks for itself.

• Price: €32
• See the Gault&Millau review of Emporio Armani Caffè (2 toques)

The Most Gastronomic: Le George in Paris by Simone Zanoni

Here, the very essence of carbonara is encapsulated in a tortellino. With every bite, its center bursts open, revealing the richness of this Roman recipe: the creamy filling consists of egg yolks, Pecorino Romano, Parmesan, guanciale, and pepper. Topping it off: crispy Pecorino Romano chips and crunchy guanciale. A brilliant interpretation where all the flavors of carbonara are revealed with great elegance.

• Price: €42
• See the Gault&Millau review of Le George (2 toques)

The Most Sicilian: Les Amis des Messina in Paris

It’s the star dish on the menu, created almost by chance during a Saturday family lunch! What makes this carbonara unique? The addition of peas and onions, a nod to traditional Sicilian home cooking. This vegetable element adds a mildness that subtly balances the richness of the cheese and cured meats. The chef uses fresh pasta and guanciale made from Nebrodi black pigs, an iconic Sicilian breed renowned for the tenderness of its meat. A refreshing take on the classic, where Roman and Sicilian influences come together in a delicious harmony.

• Price: €18.50
• See the Gault&Millau review of Les Amis des Messina (1 toque)

The most generous: Eataly in Paris by Carmine Police

Here, the experience aims to be as authentic as it is indulgent. The recipe strictly adheres to Roman tradition, featuring guanciale that’s both melt-in-your-mouth tender and crunchy, and an emulsion made with egg yolks, Pecorino Romano, and a touch of Parmigiano Reggiano that coats the pasta. The dish’s signature lies in the choice of mezzi paccheri, which hold the sauce at their core, resulting in a bite that’s firm, melt-in-your-mouth, and intensely cheesy. A comforting carbonara… and available in an XXL size for those with a hearty appetite.

• Price: €21.50 or €30 for the XXL portion
• See the Gault&Millau review of Eataly (1 toque)

The most cosmopolitan: Carmelo in Lyon

At this lively spot in the Big Mamma universe, there’s no straying from Roman fundamentals. The secret to this carbonara? Ingredients sourced from all over Italy: guanciale from the Gombitelli house—run by the same Tuscan family for centuries and prepared using an ancestral artisanal technique—Pecorino from Puglia, and Parmesan from the Parma region… The creamy sauce coats the mezze maniche, and the guanciale is delightfully crispy. A lovely tour of Italy, where the quality of the ingredients makes all the difference.

• Price: €18
• See the Gault&Millau review of Trattoria Carmelo di Big Mamma (1 toque)

The purist’s choice: La Cantinetta in Marseille by Pierre-Antoine Denis

Here, respect for tradition is the restaurant’s guiding philosophy. The chef has sought to uncover all the secrets of carbonara to refine his recipe. The pasta is bronze-cut and dried for two days; the guanciale—when not house-cured—is rigorously selected; and the mild Pecorino Romano is produced less than 50 km from Rome. The difference lies entirely in the details. An uncompromising and delicious carbonara.

• Price: €22
• See the Gault&Millau review of La Cantinetta (1 toque)

The most sentimental: Apopino in Nice by Jacopo Brunero

Nothing beats grandma’s recipes, especially when they’re Italian! The chef takes great care to recreate this comforting dish from his childhood by the book, with a high-caliber presentation. The pasta—paccheri—is made fresh daily and bronze-drawn. The highlight of the show? It’s arranged vertically, topped with a rich emulsion and crispy guanciale cut into lardons. A true culinary masterpiece that transforms this family recipe into a spectacular dish.

• Price: €32
• See the Gault&Millau review of Apopino (1 toque)

The Most Plant-Based Option: Brasserie Brunet in Annecy by Nicolas Guignard

Here, there’s no question of replicating the Italian tradition to the letter. The chef reimagines the conventions of the famous Italian dish with a visual illusion paying homage to “French-style carbonara.” But without pasta! Instead: long tagliatelle-style strips of celery. To capture all the richness of the recipe: a hay-smoked cream, accompanied by a confit egg yolk and crispy bacon bits. The interplay of textures between the finely diced raw celery and the fried celery chips is the finishing touch. A playful nod to carbonara—as daring as it is impressive.

• Price: €27 per dish, or as part of the €40 three-course menu
• See the Gault&Millau review of Brasserie Brunet (1 toque)

The most subtle: L’Altro Frenchie in Paris by Grégory Marchand

Here, the carbonara retains its identity, with a few subtle nuances. The spaghetti is coated in an emulsion of egg yolks, Sicilian pecorino, and fatty guanciale from Piedmont. What makes this dish unique? A chicken broth to lighten the sauce and reduce its richness, and a hint of lemon juice to brighten the whole dish. It’s served with crispy guanciale, sautéed with Malabar black pepper. A delicate take on this Italian classic.

• Price: €26
• See the Gault&Millau review of L’Altro Frenchie (1 toque)