It's already been five years since the Big Mamma empire set up a counter in the capital of the Gaules and of corks. It's been just as successful as everywhere else, with crowds always turning out to celebrate the authentic Italian product as seen through the eyes of marketing pros. One thing's for sure: the quality of the charcuterie, tomatoes and cheese, as well as the variety of the dishes - antipasti, pizzas, fresh pasta (made by hand every morning), veal Milanese and tiramisu specialties - are far superior to those of the fake trattorias.