Algae, the new green gold

Which seaweed to eat?

These sea vegetables, fresh or dried, are a marvellous food source, thanks to their nutritional qualities, protein content and mineral richness. Vegans are crazy about them, as are healthy food addicts... So, just as Gault&Millau believe that health is good, but treating yourself with gourmet delights is even better, we took to the oceans for a miraculous fishing trip.

• Agar-agar, the most neutral seaweed

Agar-agar is a preparation made from dried seaweed. It is most often used in recipes in powder form. Agar-agar powder is diluted in boiling water, which sets as it cools, adding consistency to desserts and sauces. These gelling algae can be used to replace pork gelatin in vegan dishes, for example.

• Dulse, the most spreadable seaweed

Not to be confused with "dulce", or you'll be disappointed. Dulse is a red seaweed that can turn purple when soaked. Its nutty aroma makes it popular in Nordic countries, where it is eaten in the form of potato chips. It thrives in the cold waters of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, and is cultivated on our Brittany coast. Rich in proteins and vitamins, as well as potassium and iodine, it is recommended in cases of anemia. It's an ideal accompaniment to omelettes, and perfect cooked as a seaweed tartar on a slice of bread.

• Green sea beans, or the longest seaweed

Long and dark, sea beans are rich in vitamins. It is grown on the coast of Brittany. Rich in iron, it is recommended for all those suffering from iron deficiency. Also known as sea spaghetti for its long, slender shape, this seaweed, which can grow up to 3 meters long, can be wrapped around a fork in the Italian style. Sold in jars, sea beans are reminiscent of their land cousins, and are best eaten after a quick dip in a pot of boiling water. They combine perfectly with local shellfish and fish recipes.

• Sea lettuce or 2-in-1 seaweed

This mild-tasting seaweed is reminiscent of spinach when cooked and salad when fresh! It's a perfect addition to sauces, butters, pasta dishes and seaweed tartars. Rich in chlorophyll, sea lettuce adds a colorful touch to dishes, and is recommended for iron deficiency, especially for pregnant women. Its fiber content helps regulate digestion. It is also high in protein and vitamins A, B12 and C.

• Nori, the most Japanese of seaweeds

Nori is a very popular red seaweed in Japan, which turns brown as it dries. Processed into thin, dried and grilled leaves, it is used to wrap rice in sushi and maki. It adds flavor to preparations and can be used to season a salad or pie, once cut into flakes.

• Spirulina, the trendiest algae

Spirulina is a microalga with a pronounced taste and multiple virtues. Its nutritional qualities were already appreciated by the Aztecs. Rich in vitamins, calcium, antioxidants, proteins, amino acids, minerals and fatty acids, its components are used to treat anemia. Able to influence immune function, it is particularly in tune with the times. A teaspoonful is enough to sprinkle on a salad.

• Wakame, the most widely consumed seaweed

Wakame, also known as seaweed, is rich in fiber and protein. This makes it very popular with vegan consumers. Originally from Asia, this seaweed is highly adaptable, and can be found in Australia, America and even on the coast of Brittany. Widely used in Japanese recipes, it can be found in miso soups and thinly sliced in salads. Rehydrated, after immersion in a bowl of boiling water, wakame can be added to a variety of dishes, including pasta, vegetable stir-fries and, of course, fish. It is also available fresh from Brittany.

Chefs and seaweed

In Olivier Roellinger's collection of spices, to mention the best-known brand, we find preparations based on Breton seaweed, called Épices Océanes, featuring dulse, kombu, wakame or méBut for those who prefer to put their feet under the table, and the right one, here's a top 5 list of addresses that include the much sought-after seaweed in their menu.

• La Butte

3 toques 15/20

12 rue de la Mer, 29260 Plouider

Dish of the moment: Tedied Lilia oysters, dulse and buckwheat (part of 165€ menu)

Gault&Millau's verdict: Nicolas Conraux's vision of cuisine is both traditional and modern, with a strong emphasis on local producers.

La Butte - Gault & Millau (gaultmillau.com)

• Le Prieuré

3 toques 15/20

7 place du Chapitre, 30400 Villeneuve-lès-Avignon

Recipe of the moment: Foie gras terrine, oyster tartar with wakame seaweed

Gault&Millau's verdict: Marc Fontanne continues his mission with precision and control, right down to the plates, which display a very sure taste.

Le Prieuré - Gault & Millau (gaultmillau.com )

• Ima

3 toques 16/20

20 boulevard de la Tour-d'Auvergne, 35000 Rennes

Dish of the moment: egg, hay, nori

Ima regularly includes seaweed from Le Croisic in its recipes.

Gault&Millau's verdict: Julien Lemarié has created a singular universe in Rennes and even Breton gastronomy.

Ima - Gault & Millau (gaultmillau.com )

• Maison Ronan Kervarrec - Le Saison

3 toques 16,5/20

1 impasse du Vieux-Bourg, 35760 Saint-Grégoire

Dish of the moment: Pollack, cockles, beurre blanc, nori - part of the Mes Souvenirs en 4 escales menu (90€).

Gault&Millau's verdict: Ronan Kervarrec plays a very personal score of tasty memories from his childhood.

Maison Ronan Kervarrec - Le Saison - Gault & Millau (gaultmillau.com )

• Le Saint James - Le Bellefeuille

4 toques 17/20

5 place du Chancelier-Adenauer, 75016 Paris

Dishes of the moment: Under a rock at low tide (étrille/agrumes/algues) - included in the menu: 145-180€.

Diving in the waters of Saint-Malo Bay (scallops/sea lettuce/pistachio) - included in the menu 145-180€.

Gault&Millau's verdict: The young chef, Julien Dumas, creates a cuisine of finesse and subtlety around seafood.

Bellefeuille - Saint-James Paris - Gault & Millau (gaultmillau.com)

• Le Castel Ac'h

2 toques 13,5/20

Plage de Lilia, 29880 Plouguerneau

Dishes of the moment: Cream of spinach and broccoli, perfect egg and seaweed gomasio (9€)

Salmon gravelax with seaweed, crème fraîche, apple juice and spirulina (12€)

Lemongrass and seaweed broth, shiitake and pak choi (24€)

Gault&Millau's verdict: David Royer, true to his "naturalness" award, stays the course in innovation and research.

Le Castel Ac'h - Gault & Millau (gaultmillau.com )