Gault&Millau Tour Bourgogne-Franche-Comté 2025
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In 1973: the ten commandments of Nouvelle Cuisine
"Cooking is when things taste like what they are," exclaimed Curnonsky, thanking the maid Mélanie for the meal she had just given him for his 81st birthday.
The meal included stuffed clams, lobster with cream sauce and partridge chartreuse, all of which must have been very good, but the shellfish, lobster and partridge certainly didn't taste like what they were. The first would have had to be eaten raw, the second would have had to be swum and the third roasted... It's with ambiguities like these, with these paradoxical aphorisms, that pre-war cuisine, and especially its spokesman Maurice Sailland, known as Curnonsky, alias Prince élu des gastronomes, have been able to maintain their reputation right up to the present day. But this cuisine, this style, overloaded with a certainty and stuffed with truisms, is dying. Just as well. All the more so as another cuisine is taking its place, emerging before our very eyes and bursting with health, common sense and good taste. French cuisine is dead (don't you agree, Mr. Times?). Well, long live the new French cuisine!
We're not icono-sclasts, and we defend, even with some bad faith, certain glorious old restaurants whose downfall would be too painful for us. Contestation in itself is negative, childish and jealous. But the blocking of taste and spirit by embellished memories is no less foolish and dangerous.our aim, therefore, is not to throw Curnonsky off his pedestal, but to beg this fat, joking gentleman to come down gently and sit in the ranks, with his comrades Brillat-Savarin, Carême and other fine talkers. Curnonsky was not lacking in certain graces, and if this chosen prince was fed all his life at the expense of the princess, he was said to be generous, indifferent to the solicitations of publicity. He was what we still call a "bon vivant". And it's precisely this image of bon vivants, fat people, napkins tied around their necks, dripping with veal stock, béchamel sauce and vol-au-vent, decorés, knights of vinous, bachique and oeno-philic brotherhoods, drinking singers and soubrette feelers that we'd like to erase from our memories. It's disgusting, and we're not afraid to say that these people didn't know how to eat. How, for example, could real gourmets lend any credence to the recipe books of the twenties, whose advice still holds sway over the post-war generations?
Take Mme Saint-Ange, a paragon of bourgeois virtue, whose "La bonne cuisine" is still considered a good book today. Attentive to describing in detail meat jellies, rouxes and white sauces, she settles in a few lines the fate of court-bouillon, good, she tells us, for any fish of doubtful freshness. How could anyone write such colossal nonsense? It has to be said that the cooking times indicated in this book, as in the others, are such that, fresh or not, the fish was transformed into papier-mâché.
This problem of cooking times will allow us to get to the heart of the matter and draw the lines that separate old and new French cuisine. It's not us, poor cooks, who invent and decree these ten new commandments. We're simply outlining the contours of a cuisine perfected by the new school of French chefs, whose names include Bocuse, Troisgros, Haeberlin, Peyrot, Denis, Guérard, Manière.minot, Chapel, etc. and in other capacities, Girard, Senderens, Oliver, Minchelli, Barrier, Vergé, Dela-veyne, etc. These laws cover a dozen or so essential points that place the new cuisine at the antipodes of the pre-war style, itself derived (but deformed) from the 19th-century style so admirably described and analyzed by Jean-Paul Aron in his "Mangeur du XIXe siècle" (Robert Laffont, ed.).we can well imagine the cries and jeers that will be heard in the old backrooms when these laws are announced. But we have our references and our new gods to defend us.
Short cooking times (Chinese style)
For most fish dishes, all shellfish, dark-fleshed poultry and roast game, veal, certain green vegetables and pasta. Roasted spiny lobster and rack of veal from Denis, green beans from Bocuse, fish from Le Duc, frogs from Haeberlin, duck from Guérard, crayfish from Troisgros, woodcock from Minot, among others, illustrate this.
NEWS
It happened..
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In 1973: the ten commandments of Nouvelle Cuisine
"Cooking is when things taste like what they are," exclaimed Curnonsky, thanking the maid Mélanie for the meal she had just given him for his 81st birthday.
The meal included stuffed clams, lobster with cream sauce and partridge chartreuse, all of which must have been very good, but the shellfish, lobster and partridge certainly didn't taste like what they were. The first would have had to be eaten raw, the second would have had to be swum and the third roasted... It's with ambiguities like these, with these paradoxical aphorisms, that pre-war cuisine, and especially its spokesman Maurice Sailland, known as Curnonsky, alias Prince élu des gastronomes, have been able to maintain their reputation right up to the present day. But this cuisine, this style, overloaded with a certainty and stuffed with truisms, is dying. Just as well. All the more so as another cuisine is taking its place, emerging before our very eyes and bursting with health, common sense and good taste. French cuisine is dead (don't you agree, Mr. Times?). Well, long live the new French cuisine!
We're not icono-sclasts, and we defend, even with some bad faith, certain glorious old restaurants whose downfall would be too painful for us. Contestation in itself is negative, childish and jealous. But the blocking of taste and spirit by embellished memories is no less foolish and dangerous.our aim, therefore, is not to throw Curnonsky off his pedestal, but to beg this fat, joking gentleman to come down gently and sit in the ranks, with his comrades Brillat-Savarin, Carême and other fine talkers. Curnonsky was not lacking in certain graces, and if this chosen prince was fed all his life at the expense of the princess, he was said to be generous, indifferent to the solicitations of publicity. He was what we still call a "bon vivant". And it's precisely this image of bon vivants, fat people, napkins tied around their necks, dripping with veal stock, béchamel sauce and vol-au-vent, decorés, knights of vinous, bachique and oeno-philic brotherhoods, drinking singers and soubrette feelers that we'd like to erase from our memories. It's disgusting, and we're not afraid to say that these people didn't know how to eat. How, for example, could real gourmets lend any credence to the recipe books of the twenties, whose advice still holds sway over the post-war generations?
Take Mme Saint-Ange, a paragon of bourgeois virtue, whose "La bonne cuisine" is still considered a good book today. Attentive to describing in detail meat jellies, rouxes and white sauces, she settles in a few lines the fate of court-bouillon, good, she tells us, for any fish of doubtful freshness. How could anyone write such colossal nonsense? It has to be said that the cooking times indicated in this book, as in the others, are such that, fresh or not, the fish was transformed into papier-mâché.
This problem of cooking times will allow us to get to the heart of the matter and draw the lines that separate old and new French cuisine. It's not us, poor cooks, who invent and decree these ten new commandments. We're simply outlining the contours of a cuisine perfected by the new school of French chefs, whose names include Bocuse, Troisgros, Haeberlin, Peyrot, Denis, Guérard, Manière.minot, Chapel, etc. and in other capacities, Girard, Senderens, Oliver, Minchelli, Barrier, Vergé, Dela-veyne, etc. These laws cover a dozen or so essential points that place the new cuisine at the antipodes of the pre-war style, itself derived (but deformed) from the 19th-century style so admirably described and analyzed by Jean-Paul Aron in his "Mangeur du XIXe siècle" (Robert Laffont, ed.).we can well imagine the cries and jeers that will be heard in the old backrooms when these laws are announced. But we have our references and our new gods to defend us.
Short cooking times (Chinese style)
For most fish dishes, all shellfish, dark-fleshed poultry and roast game, veal, certain green vegetables and pasta. Roasted spiny lobster and rack of veal from Denis, green beans from Bocuse, fish from Le Duc, frogs from Haeberlin, duck from Guérard, crayfish from Troisgros, woodcock from Minot, among others, illustrate this.
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Hotels & Bed & Breakfast
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Hotels & Bed & Breakfast
Top 5 hotels within an hour of Paris
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Hotels & Bed & Breakfast
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Top 5 hotels within an hour of Paris
Fancy a real nature weekend without a long train or car journey? Nothing could be easier with these five refuges perfect for a beautiful escape. Warm, cosy and close to the capital.
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Craftsmen & Know-How
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Pâtiss'Art announces its first edition with Nina Métayer as godmother
Normandy goes pastry. From October 26 to 28, 2024, the first Pâtiss'Art show will be held in Deauville. For the occasion, the godmother will be none other than Nina Métayer.
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News & Events
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5 gourmet restaurants on the Côte d'Azur
Between its mountainous hinterland and its beaches, the Côte d'Azur abounds in gastronomic addresses. The region's chefs are often committed to showcasing their terroir. Here's a selection.
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Hotels & Bed & Breakfast
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5 hotels you must visit once in your life
The quintessence of French refinement, these hotels combine every privilege: a dream location, exquisite cuisine and rooms, a luxurious spa - but that's not the best part.
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Craftsmen & Know-How
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Live algae
Ewen Frin, 28, founder of Omanori, is revolutionizing Breton gastronomy by supplying it with fresh seaweed thanks to an innovative system of preservation in ponds.
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Tomorrow's chefs
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Tomorrow's chefs
Gault&Millau Tour Bourgogne-Franche-Comté 2025
On the occasion of the presentation of the latest guide dedicated to the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region, Gault&Millau honored the chefs and players in these territories on Monday June 30, 2025.the event took place at the Hameau de Barboron in Savigny-lès-Beaune. The day before, award winners and Gault&Millau partners attended a dinner at the Table de Levernois.
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Hotels & Bed & Breakfast
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A refuge between land and sea
There are places that make you never want to go home again once you've pushed open the door. Solène and Nicolas Conraux's La Butte is one of them.
NEWS
Tomorrow's chefs
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Tomorrow's chefs
Gault&Millau Tour Nouvelle-Aquitaine 2025
On the occasion of the presentation of the latest guide dedicated to the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, Gault&Millau honored the chefs and players in these territories this Monday, June 16, 2025.the event took place at Hangar 14. The day before, winners and Gault&Millau partners attended a dinner at the Table de Pavie.
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Frédéric Panaïotis, cellar master at Ruinart, dies aged 60
Frédéric Panaïotis, head of the Ruinart cellars, died suddenly on Sunday June 15, 2025. The wine world pays tribute to him.
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Tables & Chefs
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Where to eat seafood in Brittany? 7 places to enjoy it
Oyster platters, seafood platters and crab platters... Here are seven Breton addresses where seafood is king!
New restaurants
Open
15
/ 20
Geoélia
Address
75116 PARIS
Chef
Camille Saint‑M'leux
Cooking
French | Gastronomic
Budget
125 € to 160 €
Open
13.5
/ 20
Aldéhyde
Address
75004 PARIS
Chef
Youssef Marzouk
Cooking
Gastronomic
Budget
35 € to 120 €
Open
13.5
/ 20
Germaine
Address
64100 BAYONNE
Chef
Maxime Chentouf
Cooking
Basque | French
Budget
48 €
Open
14.5
/ 20
Épicentre
Address
06300 NICE
Chef
Sélim M’nasri
Cooking
Gastronomic | Modern
Budget
89 € to 149 €
Gastronomy people
Les cuisiniers de demain
Gault&Millau Tour Nouvelle-Aquitaine 2025
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Chefs' recipes
13
/ 20
White tuna, cherries and sunflower chili paste
For this raw fish recipe, chef Antoine Villard (Dandelion, Paris 20th) has chosen Mediterranean white tuna, which he drizzles with a vinegar cherry juice.
15.5
/ 20
Summer Saint-Pierre
Fish stock, asparagus, apricot cream and amaretto sauce form the basis of this recipe for summer St. Pierre from chef Arthur Dubois.
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Tables & Chefs
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Tables & Chefs
Xavier Thuizat & Thierry Wasser, two noses for a unique menu
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Tables & Chefs
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Xavier Thuizat & Thierry Wasser, two noses for a unique menu
Gault&Millau met with Xavier Thuizat, Executive Head Sommelier at the Hôtel de Crillon, and Thierry Wasser, Guerlain's Nez, for a unique menu based around the senses, and in particular the sense of smell.
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News & Events
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The Bernard Loiseau group sets up shop in Metz with "Loiseau de Lorraine
In 2026, Metz will be home to a new gourmet restaurant from the Bernard Loiseau group. The project will also include a tea room and bar.
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Wines & Spirits
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When to decant a wine?
Most wines would benefit from decanting before drinking. Here's how.
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Hotels & Bed & Breakfast
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Castel Clara: the new teen cure that reconciles thalassotherapy and Gen Z in Belle-Île-en-Mer
Castel Clara, Belle-Île-en-Mer's iodine star, inaugurates a cure designed for 14-18 year-olds. A first: posture, skin, stress and a balanced diet are on the menu for a week of well-being.
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Hotels & Bed & Breakfast
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Road trip in the South: 6 hotels to stop at between Marseille and Nice
Curves that smell of heated pine, lunch breaks that are too long, and that end-of-day light that sticks to your rear-view mirrors. There are a thousand ways to take your time... and as many hotels to do it in style.
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Hotels & Bed & Breakfast
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5 hotels that will make you love art
More and more museums and collectors are offering hospitality to their visitors, allowing them to discover the works in a unique immersive experience. Here are our favorite addresses, all of which combine luxury, art and pleasure.
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News & Events
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Reine Sammut becomes chef at Domaine Misincu in Cap Corse
Reine Sammut takes over the culinary reins at Domaine Misíncu, a haven of nature and serenity in Cap Corse. Between Provençal elegance and plant-based conviviality, she infuses La Table et au Jardin with her love of produce and people.
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