What if we were to sample a true cuisine d'auteur, close to nature in a bucolic, no-frills setting? At Guillaume Monjuré and Chrystel Barnier's, there's a large table right in front of the vast wood-fired oven, enough to accommodate a dozen other guests, attracted by the simple décor and the chef's creations, always in tune with the season and respect for the environment, with an ease and economy of gesture that inspire confidence. In autumn, savor cauliflower, Mediterranean blue crab, lobster coral and chili pepper, or pigeon from Chasselay cooked over embers, mustard celery, kale, yellow wine jus. Vegetables come mainly from the plateau, like the herb soup (arugula, leek green, watercress), which alone is worth the trip. Ideas spring to life, with mustard ice cream paired with beet coulis among the appetizers, and plates and other containers featuring artisanal products adding elegance and originality to the presentation. Chrystel's wine list combines well-known estates with new discoveries, always respectful of nature, and all at very reasonable prices. The service is serene, and the chef makes occasional appearances to lend a hand if needed.