Le Château de Sable

29840 PORSPODER

14.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

17 PHOTOS

Chef Philippe Brun

Cooking French | Healthy cooking | Local | Modern

Services Accomodation | Children's Menu | Disabled access | Pets allowed | Private Parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

80€ à 145€

Gault&Millau's review

14.5/20

Chef's Restaurant Franck Jaclin, who never ceases to lay pretty little pebbles in the hotel and gourmet world of Finistère (the aptly named "Route des Pingouins"), is always happy to choose his chefs well. In Porspoder, after Julien Marseault (now at Le Partage, 15/20 in Saint-Renan) and, more recently, Anthony Hardy, it's Philippe Brun's turn to take up the challenge. Before landing opposite the Four lighthouse, this Lorraine native worked alongside Frédéric Anton, Michel Guérard, Anne-Sophie Pic, Pierre Gagnaire and others, the latter having handed him the keys to the kitchens of the Charente restaurant Gaya, in Châtelaillon. In the luminous panoramic dining room, with its soothing purity, he serves a predominantly marine and vegetal cuisine (it would indeed be a shame not to take advantage of the vegetable garden of the Château de Kergroadez, the mother house as it were) and also demonstrates a keen sense of juices and sauces. Freshness and vivacity are guaranteed with spider crab carried by a tangy shell jelly and wild fennel ice cream. Immerse yourself in the iodine with a fillet of St. Pierre enhanced by an impeccable sauce "façon sauce blanche" made with fish bones and head. A beautiful persillade of razor clams whips up the whole. On this tip of Brittany, land and sea merge, and the cuisine is no exception: Plouider's fine poultry goes perfectly with blue lobster (supreme stuffed with claws and roasted medallion with shell butter). The dessert sequence rehabilitates - if need be - salsify, the unloved canteen staple; it's served lightly caramelized with local honey and softened by a smooth vanilla farmhouse cream. Hints of coffee complete the palette of flavors. The wait staff, sometimes assisted by the chef, are friendly and efficient. As for the wine list, it favors experienced estates. So there are no nasty surprises: pic-saint-loup Mas Foulaquier, faugères Léon Barral, bandol Pibarnon, sancerre François Crochet, burgundy by Fanny Sabre, vouvray by Vincent Carême, anjou by Nicolas Réau... On the first floor, the brasserie version is already a treat with, for example, a stunning €27 menu.