La Villa Madie

13260 CASSIS

17.5/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

6 PHOTOS

Chef Dimitri Droisneau

Cooking Gastronomic

Services Children's menu | For people with disabilities | Private parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

180€ à 350€

Gault&Millau's review

17.5/20

Prestige Restaurant They worked for it. To sit at the banquet of the greats, to look the Mediterranean in the eye, as Gérald Passedat does to the west or Arnaud Donckele to the east. Today, Marielle and Dimitri Droisneau's Villa Madie is the pearl that adds to the sparkle of a Provençal necklace stretching all the way to Menton, the great stopover to be planned just as Raymond Thuilier, Louis Outhier and Roger Vergé once "did" in a well-ordered itinerary. Yes, they've locked down every checkpoint, and set the standard for hospitality and service at a very high level, with the same exacting standards that a chef imposes on his brigade: from the sardine mousseline katsuobushi, reminiscent of the herring pomme à l'huile of the chef's childhood in Normandy, to the brilliant exercise in Mediterranean style represented by the "ecosystem" bringing together the catch and inspiration of the day (vive, palamos, espardeigne bouillon de roche that day) with a delightful tartine "feuille à feuille" of red mullet. The most remarkable aspect of this culmination, which fully justifies the extra half-point, is that this cuisine is not content with transpositions, allusions and winks, dipping the English Channel into the Mediterranean here and there to link terroirs. This cuisine used to have a direction, now it has a meaning, it is both legible and preciously personal. Pascal Migliore's turbot and oysters, skilfully linked in a sustained theme of cordifole, mertensia and combava, are part of this limpid sobriety that gives the product its full chance, as are the carabineros, magnified in its naturalness by the beet, the ice cream of the shells and the oil of the juices, or the love of rabbit so well worked with langoustine. The desserts are a little less spectacular, but very consistent with what has gone before. The cellar is vast, well organized, touching on all the greats, but endowed with that extra soul and passion that reveal the work of a great sommelier (over 2 m tall, but size has nothing to do with it here), David Piquet, who is very involved and knows how to open up and satisfy everyone's curiosity. A fine work on the region, a selection of world wines and wines by the glass that change regularly and are announced live.