In the chic and peaceful seventh arrondissement of Avenue de Ségur, this already renowned restaurant, with its pleasant terrace overlooking the avenue and a bistro-style dining room stretching all the way to the kitchen, is well run by Rémi Poulain and his friends, who offer a €58 menu that you'd happily accept at half the price in the provinces, especially as the supplements and daily suggestions, with dishes priced at close to €50, are vigorously priced. The pâté en croûte is well regulated, with foie gras, poultry, duck and pistachios ("The chef is a friend of Yohan Lastre, they worked together"), the semi-cooked tuna with piquillo sauce is nicely presented and the strawberry vanilla basil entremets don't make any waves. The service is as cool as you'd expect, and the wine list, abundantly crossed out to leave half the references, is eclectic and expensive, including the dozen or so wines by the glass, from €12 to €15.