Without copying Parisian bouillons, Christophe Aribert's version is more in keeping with a fine 1950-1960 décor. We're immersed in a Nouvelle Vague spirit, both aesthetically pleasing and democratic, with globe lights, moleskin banquettes and large wooden individual tables, tiled walls and high ceilings. The food is fast and fairly good, with brasserie classics with a pleasant regional touch, such as the must-try eggs mayo at just €3.50, a Grenoble salad, roast Saint-Marcellin with mountain honey, Royans ravioli with goat-honey cream, coquillettes with truffled ham, sausage with Alpine beef and polenta, and grandma's rice pudding with salted butter caramel. Vin au pot.