Au Vieux Moulin

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

7 rue du Vieux Moulin, 67320 Graufthal, France

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

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Location: Graufthal
Chef: Guillaume Kassel
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Traditional
Services: Access for people with disabilities, Accomodation, Children's Menu, Garden, Private Parking
Style: With family, With friends

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

72 to 92

Gault&Millau's review 2026

14/20

Chef's Restaurant

At Le Vieux Moulin, on the edge of a troglodytic village in the Vosges du Nord, the glassed-in dining room is bathed in soft light, framed by the wooded hills and peaceful pond nearby, promising a convivial, no-fuss interlude. Guillaume Kassel's cuisine is clever and generous, rooted in the terroir and full of surprises. The tone is set right from the amuse-bouche: a floating island of cubic asparagus, topped with a salty cream, sprinkled with peanuts and spiced up with a subtly spicy chili oil. Foie gras d'Alsace is presented in a pastry chef's millefeuille, between thin sheets of puff pastry, strips of kohlrabi and cherries in elderberry vinegar: a beautiful alliance of freshness and gourmandise. Sparsbach trout comes next, in three surprisingly abundant acts: grilled piece with intact softness, tartar topped with a sparkling fennel sabayon and fried troutelles, enhanced with a crunchy radish and a ground ivy mayonnaise. The Düwehof squab, rosé through and through, rests on a creamy porcini praline, welcomes a large-scale stuffed morel mushroom and is drizzled with a Mokxa coffee-infused jus. The contemporary vacherin, topped with a slightly firm rhubarb-glazed parfait and topped with a tangy coulis, completes the meal with a welcome freshness, before the reine-des-prés tartlet and lukewarm financier round off the experience. The chef's mother, Sylvie Kassel, a discreet hostess, watches over the meal with benevolent attention, while the enthusiastic sommelier suggests a lively Riesling Zotzenberg 2022 or a delicately harmonious "Biquette" 2023 from the Lubéron, both of which prolong the pleasure and underline the generosity of this popular table.