Where to eat sweetbreads? Our good addresses

Gault&Millau takes you on a tour of France in search of the best sweetbreads. Here are five addresses where you can feast on them.

Mathilde Bourge Published on 8/14/24 at 9:23 AM

In the offal family, we ask for sweetbreads. This "nut" with its round, fine taste is a real delicacy... provided it's cooked properly! Sweetbread is a delicate meat that becomes tough when overcooked. But prepared to perfection, it's absolutely tender, sometimes with a slightly crispy surface. Let's discover five chefs who cook sweetbreads in their own (delicious) way.

Restaurant Neva Cuisine, Paris

Beatriz Gonzalez is a Mexican chef who has lived in Paris for many years. In her Neva restaurant (2 toques), located in the 8th arrondissement of Paris, she offers a "crousti fondant" veal sweetbread, served with a poêlée and carrot puréIt's a perfect return to the roots, described as a "chef's specialty" on the menu.

Where to find us Restaurant Neva Cuisine, 2 rue de Berne, 75008 Paris
www.nevacuisineparis.com

L'Oustau de Baumanière, Les Baux-de-Provence

Glenn Viel's boiled veal sweetbreads at L'Oustau de Baumanière (4 toques) have become one of the chef's signature dishes. He first simmers them in a vegetable broth before cooking the sweetbreads one-sided in a frothy butter. Glenn Viel finishes by lacquering them with a reduced veal jus, before coating them with buckwheat for even more crunch. A must-try dish during a stay in Baux-de-Provence.

Where to eat? L'Oustau de Baumanière, D27, 13520 Les Baux-de-Provence
www.baumaniere.com

Virginie Ovessian

La Mirande, Avignon

Florent Pietravalle, Grand de Demain Gault&Millau 2022, has made a name for himself with his unconventional cuisine, playing on atypical flavors. But sometimes, the chef at La Mirande (4 toques) likes the great classics, such as sweetbreads, which he serves wrapped in a crispy breading for even more deliciousness. To liven things up, Florent Pietravalle adds a dollop of caviar, adding just the right amount of saltiness to break up the roundness of the sweetbreads.

Where to eat? La Mirande, 4 place de l'Amirande, 84000 Avignon, France
www.la-mirande.fr

La Maison dans le Parc, Nancy

Charles Coulombeau, a young chef based in Nancy, was influenced by one of his trips to Japan. You can feel it in his cooking, as in his sweetbreads with comté, wasabi, parsnips and foyot au katsuobushi, a beautiful blend of Asian flavors and sweetbreads, an emblem of classic French cuisine.

Where to eat? La Maison dans le Parc, 3 rue Sainte-Catherine, 54000 Nancy
lamaisondansleparc.com

Roza Sayfullaeva

La Vieille Tour, Plérin

Nicolas Adam has made his home in Côtes-d'Armor, on the outskirts of Saint-Brieuc. His Vieille Tour (2 toques), located at the mouth of the Port du Légué in Plérin, offers a pan-seared sweetbread, chanterelles, smoked potato gnocchi, spring onion and veal jus (the accompaniment may vary according to the season)... The perfect way to immerse yourself in the chef's world of land and sea.