Neva

Rating: 13
Author: Gault&Millau

75008 PARIS

13/20
Chef's Restaurant

5 PHOTOS

Chef: Beatriz Gonzalez
Cooking: French | Modern
Style: Bistro/Brasserie

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

46 to 76

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Neva is still the hub of the neighborhood and, for the past dozen years, has been a symbol of the modern bistro, open to the world, lively and full of good vibes. And while Beatriz Gonzalez's cuisine may have seemed a little more refined and sophisticated in the past, it is never banal, always meticulous in detail, exuberant and imaginative: cromesquis of pig's trotter with tartar sauce, sea bass tartar with kalamansi vinaigrette and cauliflower tabbouleh, plancha scallops with smoked comice purée and pan-fried coral emulsion, and veal sweetbreads as a speciality, always crunchy-melting with roasted sweet potato, spinach and well-reduced veal jus, make for some very tasty sequences. Desserts are varied and well imagined in chef mode: marron cassis tonka, kiwi lime aloe vera dacquoise almond sorbet mint, and the always spectacular chocolate sphere. The cellar is a fine blend of nature, classics and contemporary references, and Matthieu Marcant's lively front-of-house management is as remarkable as ever, bringing his house to life with authority and kindness.