Young Talent 2017 restaurants (3/3)

Anthony Hamon - Cézembre (Paris 6)

@cezembrerestaurant -

This new restaurant has taken Saint-Germain by storm in just a few months. Creative, exciting cuisine by 29-year-old chef Anthony Hamon (Briochin by birth, Cézembre being the name of a coastal island in the Bay of Saint-Malo), who plays with the flavors of land and sea, winning over a growing clientele. Noble, direct-arrival fish are the mainstay of this clean-cut cuisine, which strikes the right, natural tone, with shiitake brill, scallops and foie gras, and saint-pierre and garlic mousseline in a very good €45 menu. The wine list includes a number of "bio" wines, offering a pleasant choice, while the dessert list needs to be expanded (a good Grand Marnier soufflé).

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Cézembre

17 rue Grégoire de Tours 75006 Paris More info

Julien Ricail - L' Auberge de la Tour (Givet)

Elise and Julien Ricail have set up shop opposite the Meuse, in this green and all-too-familiar valley, and have made a good job of understanding the expectations of local customers. Meticulous service, a warm, colorful setting, and a cuisine that, with the exception of the €19 lunch menu, shows real ambition: red mullet fillets on a brunoise of peppers and zucchini, marinated tuna steak with a spicy polenta sauce and vitelotte chips, white peach soup with wine and verbena and vanilla ice cream in a €42 menu that reflects the quality of the products used.

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L'Auberge de la Tour

6 quai des Fours 08600 Givet

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Dorian Wicart- La Grange aux Loups (Apremont)

@little_irisalix -

For almost 40 years, La Grange aux Loups was run by Jean-Claude Jalloux, who was also behind the creation of the Confrérie du Sabre d'Or (which teaches people how to saber champagne). On the eve of his retirement, Jean-Claude Jalloux was keen to hand over the reins to Dorian Wicart, previously at Le Dolce in Chantilly, and his partner Julie Portal. Just a few months after settling in, the young couple gave the restaurant a complete makeover, and now operate in a contemporary setting much more suited to the young chef's cuisine: mackerel with white wine and vegetable pickles, chorizo-crusted cod and penne with baby vegetables, raspberry and rhubarb charlotte with vanilla mousseline in a sequence that barely exceeds €30. Four pretty rooms to extend your stay.

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La Grange aux Loups

8 rue du 11 Novembre 60300 Apremont More info

Romain Hubert - L' Emulsion (Saint-Alban-de-Roche)

It all starts with an emulsion, in this beautiful contemporary setting of waxed concrete and bleached stone, a few high tables and a beautiful interior that was once Bernard Lantelme's. Romain Hubert and his wife Oriane have turned it into a chic place where the plate is beautiful, inspired by fashions on classic bases in a good-natured bourgeois atmosphere that reassures the clientele of yesteryear. After the excellent carrot-crustaceous emulsion, snails in cromesquis and tuberous chervil with green tea and mushroom juice, well thought-out and gourmet, a char-chevalier in bread crustsbread crust, celery (in mousseline and as a cake) and lemongrass sabayon for an interesting interplay of textures, followed by inventive desserts, often vegetable-based (eggplant and lemon). Classic cellar, pleasant service.

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L'Emulsion

57 route de Lyon 38080 Saint-Alban-de-Roche

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Sylvain Revelant - L'Achillée (Touques)

@restaurant_lachillee -

This house, with its purely regional setting of half-timbered walls and beams, now boasts a tradition of sophisticated cuisine that goes beyond the traditional Normandy one might imagine. Pastry chef Marie Hue and fellow chef Sylvain Revelant met at Hélène Darroze's in London before taking over, and renaming, the former "Landiers". We salute their commitment to local producers, and their excellent choice of non-house-made products (Cluizel chocolate, excellent and regional, the strong cellar built with the Pierre Noble cellars in Rouen...). And the cuisine is immediately worthy of two toques, the savoir-faire from appetizers to dessert being obvious, even if we regret a little the lack of choice in the menus: langoustines mousserons, fava beans and almonds, organic chicken potato anchovy lettuce broth with parmesan, strawberry rhubarb and goji berries almond milk ice cream. Normally high prices, but a good introductory menu at €35.

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L'Achillée

90 rue Louvel et Brière 14800 Touques

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David Khong - Ko-sometsuke.2K (Angers)

@mr_k_and_mrs_k -

The sign is almost intimidating and requires a minimum of explanation: the two Ks symbolize the Khong siblings, David and his sister Dany, the first of whom we've already met in Bordeaux, at Moshi-Moshi. As for ko-somestsuke, it's the Japanese name for porcelain. A menu of well-crafted dim-sum dishes (which create that astonishing foggy atmosphere in the dining room), dishes essentially based on seafood, mussel wok with ginger, ceviche (sea bream, tuna, depending on the catch of the day) and good humor.

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Ko-sometsuke.2K

156 bd de la Plage 33120 Arcachon

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Dorian van Bronkhorst - L' Atelier Yssoirien (Issoire)

@alexianoko -

A young chef who takes risks, seeks out and explores the world of flavors in the heart of the Auvergne region, is well worth a closer look. Dorian Van Bronkhorst officiates in the center of the dining room with his brigade, in this contemporary orange-and-blue setting, offering aromatic dishes with Asian or classic influences, such as an excellent chicken broth with lemongrass and coriander, or two-cooked duck with orange gravy. Good cellar covering most regions. Two toques this year.

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L'Atelier Yssoirien

23 bd Triozon-Bayle 63500 Issoire

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Alexandre Zdankevitch - Zdank (Grenoble)

@zdank.restaurant -

Bistro on the first floor, gastro on the first floor, the idea is an old one, but here it's translated into something new, and we encourage it. Zdank stands for Alexandre Zdankévitch, the young chef who, with his partner Thibault, launched this contemporary restaurant last autumn, offering slash dishes and seasonal combinations: asparagus, walnuts and bacon, féra oignon laitue, brill with red cabbage and bacon passion, veal with morels and peas... Upstairs, the same concept with more prestigious products (sea bass rutabaga yuzu, sea urchin chestnut...), a good sense of aesthetics in a certain sobriety, for a great discovery on every floor. Prices are as solid as the chef's technique (€70 menu upstairs...), and the cellar focuses on young winemakers and the stars of the moment, from Marjorie Gallet to Hervé Souhaut to Loïc Roure, for example.

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Zdank

14 rue Fantin-Latour 38000 Grenoble

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The Jeunes Talents restaurants part 1 is here.

Part 2 is here.

Texts: Guide France 2017.