Please wait

Contact

37-39 rue Boissière
75016 Paris
France

Phone : 01 41 40 99 80

GaultMillau © 2025 All rights reserved

Behind-the-scenes chefs: their recipe for success

Behind-the-scenes chefs: their recipe for success

Bérangère Chanel | 7/30/24, 3:08 PM

They are second-in-command, or executive chefs. Customers don't know their names. Yet they are inseparable from the success of their media boss. Focus on them.

Collaborator, masculine noun. "Person who collaborates on a common work". That's the definition in Le Robert dictionary. It says it all when it comes to those chefs who contribute to a restaurant's success without customers necessarily knowing their names. And in every case, they roll up their sleeves to bring the signature of a great chef to life behind the stove. Their talent is an indispensable ingredient in the success of their mentor chef. Long a silent presence, these indispensable figures in the smooth running of an establishment have been stepping out of the shadows in recent years...

In Paris, Frédéric Anton doesn't keep quiet about the names of his stable of talents: Kevin Garcia at Jules Verne, Mehdi Sgard at Pré Catelan, Adrien Delcourt at 18 by, Frédéric Anton at Shanghai and Gabin Bordelais at Don Juan II. "They're all loyal, serious and professional. I work with men who have grown up alongside me, who know me by heart and are capable of taking on responsibilities," reveals the great chef, confiding that he also sticks to the affinity he has with each of them. The Meilleur Ouvrier de France is keen to help his lieutenants evolve without considering that he has to take a back seat - physically speaking, during service - to them. "I organize myself to be present in all my restaurants. When I tell them, you guys are the bosses! They say, 'No, Chef, you're the boss,'" he assures us.

For her part, Aude Rambour is Cyril Lignac's long-time sidekick, having worked at Anne-Sophie Pic and La Tour d'Argent before becoming the cathodic chef's right-hand woman. Rarely featured in the media, the chef from Le Pouliguen took part in the documentary "Qu'est-ce qu'on va faire de toi", released in cinemas earlier this year, about Cyril Lignac's career and the obstacles he had to face. His case is not unique. Here are some other executive chefs or seconds to whom great toques owe (also) their success.

Ricardo Silva & Thierry Marx, at Onor

Ricardo Silva is also responsible for the success of Onor (3 toques). Armed with his benevolent smile, Ricardo Silva brightens up his mentor chef's latest table. Originally from Portugal, the chef became Thierry Marx 's working partner when the Japanese gastronomy fanatic took the helm at the Mandarin Oriental in Paris two years ago. It's 2011, and Ricardo Silva has begun a long and valuable collaboration. Becoming his associate for the Onor restaurant, the executive chef takes part in his visionary partner's culinary experiments, through a research workshop that Thierry Marx has set up alongside another invaluable collaborator, chemist Raphaël Haumont.Although he has been following in Chef Marx's footsteps for the past thirteen years, Ricardo Silva first cut his teeth in his own country, in the magnificent Algarve region, at Vila Vita Parc. He then consolidated his experience in London, working with Pierre Gagnaire at his famous Sketch table.


© DR

Tamaki Kobayashi & Anne-Sophie Pic

Of course, there's the hyphen represented by Japan to seal the closeness of the two women. Anne-Sophie Pic's passion for Japanese culture is no secret, while Tamaki Kobayashi is originally from Japan. His presence on the Pic restaurant brigade (4 toques) is a matter of course. Tamaki Kobayashi arrived in Valence as an apprentice as part of her apprenticeship at the prestigious Tsuji Hotel School in Osaka. Since 2020, she has been assistant chef at Anne-Sophie Pic's gastronomic flagship. "We work with Anne-Sophie Pic with mutual respect and cultivate an otherness that we share with the teams," explains the chef, who also confronts her culture with that of her chef mentor to extract inspirations developed within the test kitchen. Throughout Kobayashi's career, the Pic signature has been a common thread. While the Japanese chef perfected her CV with Pierre Gagnaire, at Joël Robuchon's Japanese table and at Maison Vérot, she has constantly punctuated each of her experiences by returning to Anne-Sophie Pic each time. For example, in 2009, when Anne-Sophie Pic arrived in Lausanne (Switzerland), Tamaki Kobayashi didn't hesitate to join the Beau Rivage Palace team.

Laurène Barjhoux and Manon Fleury, chez Datil

If you're a fan of fine tableware, you'll no doubt remember this collaboration between Habitat and Thierry Marx from ten years ago? She's the designer! In a previous life, Laurène Barjhoux was a tableware designer. In 2018, her career took a completely different turn when she obtained her CAP in cuisine and applied culinary arts from the Ferrandi school. Laurène Barjhoux will no longer be designing plates, but filling them with gastronomic creations. First at l'Arpège (Gault&Millau Académie), where the young chef perfected both her pastry skills and pantry management. Then, in 2018, she met Manon Fleury at Le Mermoz (1 toque). The former fencer is now the new shooter of French cuisine, recommended by many critics. Behind the stove, Manon and Laurène may each have their own identity, but they share common values, starting with respect for others. A sisterhood that both will cultivate by opening the Datil restaurant, but also by leading their fight within the Bondir.e association to combat violence in the kitchen.


DR

Yohann Caron & Cédric Grolet

He's the colleague you like to joke around with while working. He's the one you meet up with after hours spent carving fruit that's truer than life, or assembling sumptuous Saint-Honoré. Yohann Caron is the collaborator turned friend. At Le Meurice, this former pupil of the Lycée Jacques-Cœur in Bourges worked in Cédric Grolet 's shadow as the latter climbed the ladder of popularity to become the reference we know. Yohann Caron watched his friend from Saint-Etienne become a star, joining the Parisian palace in 2013, while Grolet became its head pastry chef a year later. In 2019, their duo became a media sensation when Cédric Grolet asked his sidekick to join him in his new personal adventure, that of his Parisian patisserie Opéra. Yohann Caron leaves Le Meurice and takes over the running of this sweet haunt, which is hyper-adored on social networks. He then accompanied him on his many projects, traveling as far as Singapore to show off the paw (or pastry) of his chef friend.

These news might interest you

5 mistakes to avoid when booking a gourmet restaurant Tables & Chefs

5 mistakes to avoid when booking a gourmet restaurant

Would you like to have lunch or dinner in a gourmet restaurant, but don't know how to go about it? Here are our tips and tricks.
Alexandre Baule takes over the kitchens at Les Roches Rouges News & Events

Alexandre Baule takes over the kitchens at Les Roches Rouges

Alexandre Baule is about to take over the kitchens at Les Roches Rouges in Saint-Raphaël. His arrival will be accompanied by the opening of two new addresses.
10 3-Toque restaurants with menus under 50 euros Tables & Chefs

10 3-Toque restaurants with menus under 50 euros

Eat for less than 50 euros in a Gault&Millau 3-toque restaurant? It's possible! Here's the proof, with our selection of great value restaurants.
Eloi Spinnler's good addresses News & Events

Eloi Spinnler's good addresses

Eloi Spinnler, chef at Orgueil et Colère restaurants in Paris, reveals his top tips for buying vegetables, kombucha and beautiful tableware.
Craftsmen & Know-How

Ebony treasure from The Peninsula Paris For Easter, Anne Coruble has created a trompe-l'oeil that's truer than life, with its curves of black garlic and subtle caramelized taste. Beneath a shell of 40% Madagascar milk chocolate, eight cloves enclose a candied black garlic ganache and hazelnut praline. A precious creation that opens without being broken, so hesitant is it to open. Price: 95 euros Pre-order from March 29 and on sale from April 12. The turtle candy box from Manufacture Ducasse Set a course for the Mediterranean with this turtle-shaped bonbonnière made entirely of chocolate, from base to lid. inside are "turtle nuggets" combining vanilla marshmallow and hazelnut praline, as well as coconut praline bells. Price: 67 euros À la mère de famille hens À la mère de famille carries on the tradition with its chocolate hens, available in several sizes and named after the owners and their families who have marked the history of the house (Hélène, Julia, Adélaïde, Jane and Claude). Two recipes: a dark chocolate with woody, earthy notes, and a milk chocolate with milk and caramel accents. inside, an assortment of butterflied praline eggs, praline fritures and dry fritures. Price: 19 to 122 euros depending on format available from March 17, 2025 The Cheval Blanc Paris Easter bell Maxime Frédéric imagines a bell in motion, in homage to Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris. Its dark chocolate base conceals a tablet filled with vanilla caramel and crispy hazelnut praline. The milk chocolate belfries enclose a praline tablet, while the yoke houses chocolate-coated caramelized hazelnuts. The dark chocolate bell is transformed into a mendiant, studded with dried and candied fruit. Price: 135 euros Edwart Chocolatier Three mischievous animals are part of Edwart's Easter collection: Yara, the lively, inquisitive bird, Eloa, the dreamy frog, and Taïno, the mischievous, playful monkey. All made from Grands Crus cocoa, for a playful blend of indulgence and character. Credit: Edwart Spring takes flight at Waldorf Astoria Versailles - Trianon Palace Eddie Benghanem has created a poetic tribute to spring: a little bird perched on a tree trunk with delicate sugar flowers. inside, an alliance of dark chocolate, chocolate almond cake, dark ganache and crunchy praline. Price: 45 euros Capon Head for Chaponie, where jungle animals come to life in chocolate. Léonard the leopard in milk chocolate, Suzy the zebra in white chocolate, Zoé the bonobo in milk chocolate, Bob the bear in dark chocolate. All deliciously garnished with fried food. Price: 19 euros each Cédric Grolet's trompe-l'œil chocolates Almond, hazelnut, peanut and pecan: five dried fruits sublimated in trompe-l'œil. Beneath a crunchy chocolate shell, a praline made from the fruit in question, with a hint of fleur de sel. Available in S and M sizes. Size S: 30 euros Size M: 50 euros from March 26, pre-order on our website Claire Heitzler's Bibis Chef Claire Heitzler has created three chocolate bears, tenderly nicknamed Les Bibis. Milk, dark or white, each contains an assortment of three-chocolate and praline chips. Cyril Lignac Farm animals take center stage in this collection by Cyril Lignac: hens, pigs and sheep in crunchy chocolate, topped with praline eggs and mini chocolate bears. Available in dark, milk or dulcey versions. Available from March 27 Maison Boissier lace cats This year, Maison Boissier pays tribute to felines with a box of two cats in dark and milk chocolate, finely sculpted and filled with sweet treats. Price: 125 euros Cagnes Sheep, bunny and hen take shape in dark or milk chocolate. Under their shells, a heart of chocolate chips and crunchy marbles. starting at 20 euros Arnaud Larher MOF Arnaud Larher unveils a collection of four whimsical creatures, all topped with fritures. Kim the parrot in white chocolate and Ruby, René the elephant in caramel chocolate, Émilie the gorilla in intense dark chocolate, and Élio the lion in white chocolate and caramel. Prices: from 35 to 64 euros from March 20
A Thierry Marx restaurant in the heart of a Dordogne vineyard News & Events

A Thierry Marx restaurant in the heart of a Dordogne vineyard

A Thierry Marx restaurant will open in the Dordogne on June 1, in the heart of the Vignoble des Verdots vineyards. The project focuses on gastronomy and wine tourism to attract gourmets and wine lovers alike.

Food products, kitchen equipment, tableware, service solutions...

See the full list of partners who place their trust in Gault&Millau

All our partners
Become a Partner
LEARN MORE