10 must-visit addresses in Montpellier

Montpellier continues to expand, renovate and reinvent itself. This gifted city artfully restores the mansions and alleyways of its historic district. She gives the best builders carte blanche to redesign her suburbs with architectural follies such as the White Tree by Japan's Sou Fujimoto. It encourages the emergence of a new generation of creators with its abundance of galleries, museums and festivals - dance, music, theater - not to mention an unparalleled gastronomic revival. A city to discover as quickly as possible, through our ten addresses.

Where to stay

Hôtel Richer de Belleval

Inaugurated in June 2021 and a Relais & Châteaux member in the heart of Montpellier, the Hôtel Richer de Bellevalis housed in a handsome 17th-century townhouse, listed as a historic monument. Restored by interior designer Philippe Prost, the 20 rooms and suites exude a luxurious elegance that transcends the ages. Mouldings and parquet floors sit side by side with Christian Lacroix carpets, tassel chandeliers and antique frescoes with Flos lamps, not to mention (very) beautiful bathrooms clad in white marble. Our loyal guests appreciate the refinement of the premises, the works of art in the lobby, patio and bar, and the Elytre with its ceiling by Jan Fabre. But above all, they come for the pleasure of rediscovering the exquisite cuisine of Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, available at the Jardin des Sens (4 toques) or the chic bistro La Canourgue (2 toques).

• Double room from 230 euros
• Place de la Canourgue 34000 Montpellier. Tel: 04 99 66 18 18
• www.hotel-richerdebelleval.com

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Hôtel Baudon de Mauny

Lovers of history and architecture swear by this private mansion, brilliantly restored by Alain and Nathalie de Bordas, who spent two years restoring the best of the XVIIIᵉ spirit (gypsum decorations on the ceilings, marble fireplaces, sculpted mirrors, stone floors), while scattering here and there a few touches of modernity (designer pieces and fixtures...). The result is a no-brainer, with 8 bedrooms of refined luxury, extended by large, luminous bathrooms, but also a splendid XVIIIᵉ salon, a bar set up in the Pièce Noire, and a glass-roofed courtyard where guests gather for breakfast. A magical place, right in the heart of Montpellier's old town.

• Double room from 145 euros, breakfast included
• Rue de la Carbonnerie 34000 Montpellier. Tel: 04 67 02 21 77
• www.baudon-de-mauny-bed-breakfast.languedoc-hotels.com

Where to have lunch, dinner or a drink?

Céna

Here's the review of this 2-toque Gault&Millau restaurant: "Clément Briand-Seurat made the right move at the right time, setting up in the heart of the city at a time when the landscape was thinning out. The place de l'Ancienne Diligence, still warm from the cold, is now home to a young chef with a bright future and ambition, who has mastered his subject and proudly wears his two toques." Read more

• 2 place Pétrarque, 34000 Montpellier
• www.cena-montpellier.fr

Ébullition

Here's the review of this 3-toque Gault&Millau restaurant: "Humility and hard work, two words that mean a lot to Boris and Coralie. In four years, they've created one of the city's most interesting gastronomic haunts, with the same modesty, the same naturalness." Read more

• 10 rue du Pila Saint-Gély, 34000 Montpellier
• www.restaurant-ebullition.eu

L'arbre blanc

Our favorite in Montpellier. Set atop the sublime building designed by Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto, this rooftop offers a 360° panorama of the forest from the city's rooftops to the waters of the Mediterranean, the garrigues to the Pic Saint Loup, the city of Sète and Mont Saint-Clair. A breathtakingly beautiful view, to be enjoyed at sunset with a glass of wine or a cocktail, accompanied by excellent tapas.

• 10 Parvis Oscar Niemeyer 34000 Montpellier
• www.larbre-restaurant.fr

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Things to see, things to do...

The narrow streets of the old town from Place de la Comédie to Place du Peyrou

Above the Place de la Comédie, the historic Écusson district is a must for any stroll in Montpellier. Take a stroll through the alleyways of the Loge, Ancien Courrier and Croix d'Or to reach the church of Saint-Roch, then the Place Royale du Peyrou, flanked by a triumphal arch and a bronze statue of King Louis XIV on horseback. Don't miss the Delaluce concept store and its Japanese canteen, the L'Heure Bleue tea room and its colonial-style decor, the Italian ice-cream parlour Padova, and Clara Jung's mouth-watering pastries. Also not to be missed is France's oldest plant garden, designed by Pierre Richer de Belleval in 1593. Still owned by the University of Medicine, this magnificent 4.5-hectare haven in the heart of the city is home to centuries-old trees, medicinal plant beds, a greenhouse, lotus-filled ponds and an extraordinary bamboo forest.

• Dealuce 2 rue Saint-Côme 34000 Montpellier. Tel: 04 67 06 90 75
• L'Heure Bleue 1 rue de la Carbonnerie 34000 Montpellier. Tel: 04 67 66 41 05
• Padova 1 rue de Rouan. 34000 Montpellier. Tel: 06 79 79 96 01
• Clara Jung 21 rue du Palais de Guilhem. 34000 Montpellier. Tel: 09 81 31 43 54
• Jardin des Plantes. Boulevard Henri IV. 34000 Montpellier.

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Le pavillon populaire

Just a stone's throw from Place de la Comédie (and the wonderful Sauramps bookshop), this new nugget in Montpellier's cultural landscape is entirely dedicated to photography, with three major international exhibitions each year (Depardon, Linda McCartney, Plossu...), all open to the public. This summer, don't miss the exhibitions by Gabriele Münter and Eudora Welty, two major artists in the history of photography. In May, the venue also organizes the Boutographies, Montpellier's photographic meetings dedicated to European authors.

• Esplanade Charles de Gaulle 34000 Montpellier. Tel: 04 67 14 83 00
• www.montpellier.fr/pavillon-populaire.htm

Musée Fabre

One of France's finest museums. Conceived by painter François-Xavier Fabre in the 1830s, it houses a fine collection dating from the XIVᵉ century to the present day, regularly enriched by acquisitions and donations from artists. Works by Rubens, Veronese, Poussin and Courbet can be admired, as well as contemporary painters such as Viallat, Bioulès, and above all 34 canvases by Pierre Soulages.

• 39 Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle 34000 Montpellier. Tel: 04 67 14 83 00
• www.museefabre.fr

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Le Mo.co

Housed in the former Hôtel Montcalm, this venue has rapidly established itself as one of France's leading contemporary art centers. This is due in no small part to the quality of its temporary exhibitions, spread over some 3,500 m². Not to be missed this year is the superb "Être Méditerranée" exhibition, exploring contemporary art from around the Mediterranean, as well as a retrospective of contemporary artist Kader Attia. After your visit, take a break on the Faune terrace for a drink or a refreshing salad, while admiring the Atlas garden and its vegetation from five continents, enhanced by the monumental fountain by contemporary artist Bertrand Lavier.

• 13 rue de la République 34000 Montpellier. Tel: 04 99 58 28 09
• www.moco.art

Le Lez market

On the banks of the River Lez and a stone's throw from the heart of the city, this former industrial wasteland transformed into a third-party venue is now one of the most popular addresses for locals. Here, you can enjoy delicious street food from a choice of food trucks and corner food outlets. You can sit on the terrace of one of the bars overlooking the river, such as the much-appreciated Muchacha, before browsing the flea markets and decorating boutiques (with special mention for Maison Pernelle's remarkable sourcing). Hipsters won't want to miss the chic barbershop and hairdresser that's been here since the very beginning.

• 1348 avenue de la mer 34000 Montpellier
• www.marchedulez.com

And one more escape... Maguelonne Cathedral

10 km from the city, this edifice (known as the Cathedral of the Sands) seems to sit magically on a small islet surrounded by garrigues, vineyards and dunes, a haven for many birds. After admiring this treasure of Romanesque art, cross the dunes to discover one of the most beautiful sandy beaches on the coast. Magical at sunset.