The 10 who make Lyon

It's one of the world's proudest cities in terms of its history and culture. At a time when every metropolis is undergoing a metamorphosis to keep pace with the times, the former capital of the Gauls is also reinventing itself, but in its own way, blending history and modernity to preserve its authenticity. The birthplace of the silk industry, Croix Rousse has become one of the city's most creative districts, while remaining faithful to the memory of its Canuts, preserving the 19th-century buildings that housed their looms and the traboules that linked them. As the world capital of gastronomy, Lyon not only applauds its historic chefs, but also a young generation of chefs determined to shake up traditions in the famous bouchons that are the very soul of the city. A beacon of art and architecture, Lyon is restoring its historic buildings (Gallo-Roman, Renaissance, 18th, 19th century...) and inviting the most audacious architects to transform the cityscape, as demonstrated by the Musée des Confluences - a spectacular vessel of glass and steel. The result is a flawless city...

It's a great city to live in, to cycle through its neighborhoods, to laze on the banks of its rivers or hunt for bargains at the flea market; to discover the best of medieval art, contemporary architecture and to indulge in all kinds of delicacies. Here's the proof, with our 10 top picks to try out as soon as possible!

Where to stay?

Hôtel Intercontinental Lyon

We might as well say it straight out: this luxury hotel is one of our favorites. For its refinement, the excellence of its service, but above all, because it sums up all the splendor and nobility of Lyon. Set on the Quai du Rhône, the hotel is housed in the city's former Hôtel-Dieu, a sublime 18th-century building whose façade (360 meters long!) is topped by a 32-metre dome, the work of Jacques-Germain Soufflot, who designed the Pantheon in Paris. Jean-Philippe Nuel, in charge of the palace's design, could have been intimidated by the immense challenge. However, he has succeeded in infusing the palace with a true modernity blended with multiple references, starting with the two lobbies decorated with Burgundy stones and silks, two great symbols of Lyon. Two steps away, under the stone dome, the bar invites you into an 18th-century room furnished with banquettes in midnight-blue velvet accented with gold. The grand spectacle continues in the Epona restaurant (led by the talented Mathieu Charrois), with its stone floors, exposed beams and sconces reminiscent of hospital headdresses. The 144 rooms and suites boast the same luxury - sleek furnishings, silk fabrics and views over the dark waters of the Rhône - as does the Cinq mondes spa nestled in the building's cloister. A dreamy interlude before setting off to discover the other treasures of the Grand Hôtel-Dieu site: boutiques, market halls, restaurants and bars, not forgetting the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie.

• Double room from327 euros, breakfast included. 20 quai Jules Courmont. 69002 Lyon. Tel: 04 26 99 23 23
• www.lyon.intercontinental.com
  

Hôtel de l'Abbaye

In the heart of the presqu'île, this boutique hotel is housed in the former presbytery of the Saint-Martin d'Ainay basilica, and offers guests the charm of a heritage heckled with spirit by the decorators of Maison Hand. The 21 rooms and suites offer warm, cozy spaces with XXL bedding, iconic design pieces (Mushroom by Pierre Paulin, Togo Ligne Roset sofa) and furniture either custom-designed or sourced from nearby antique shops. On the first floor, the l'Artichaut restaurant treats gourmets to bistronomic cuisine led by chef Clément Lopez, all set against the welcoming Basilic café. A perfect address for exploring the city, halfway between Place Bellecour and the Confluence museum.

• From 180 euros, breakfast included. 20 rue de l'Abbaye d'Ainay 69002 Lyon Tel: 04 78 05 60 40
• www.hotelabbayelyon.com

Where to have lunch, dinner or a drink?

Ayla

After months of renovation, Najem Atmeh and Corinne Bec served their first dishes in the spring. Located in Les Feux, behind the Halles Paul Bocuse, the restaurant brilliantly blends Najem's Lebanese culture with Corinne's French savoir-faire.

Najem left Lebanon, where he had worked in some of the world's top hotels, to begin a master's degree at the Institut Paul Bocuse in Lyon, before an enriching experience at Le Grand Réfectoire, where he met Corinne. She worked her way up through the ranks, training with Davy Tissot, Patrick Henriroux and Marcel Ravin at Blue Bay Monaco.

Together, they offer a mezzé formula, with a variety of flavors and a nod to local produce. All in a warm, chic decor that's sure to please their epicurean clientele.

• 1 place de l'Europe 69006 Lyon Tel: 04 27 78 40 74
• www.ayla-restaurant.fr

Le Neuvième Art

This cuisine is goldsmith's work. That's how our investigator sums up his visit. It's true that Christophe Roure, with his perfectionism and his fidelity to a line that's constantly on the edge, offers chiseled work that moves and transports. In this restful, hushed room, where everything is in its place, everything allows you to concentrate on the tasting. The wine list is beautiful and extensive. The service is very attentive, sometimes hasty, and the prices are adjusted without extravagance. The 4th toque in 2023.

• 173 Rue Cuvier, 69006 Lyon Tel: 04 72 72 12 74
• www.leneuviemeart.com

Le Bar Bulle

The city's new hotspot, reached by climbing the Fourvière hill or taking the Ficelle, the poetic red funicular in Vieux-Lyon. At the summit, 287 meters above sea level and a stone's throw from the Basilique de Fourvière, you'll find the Maison Carrée, a building that once belonged to the Diocèse de Lyon and recently transformed into a restaurant where chef Guy Lassausaie offers a tasty "urban and ecological cuisine". But the best is yet to come with the upper floor, which houses a bar extended by a large shaded terrace with a magical view over Lyon and, in the background, the dark silhouette of the Alps. A must-see if you arrive early, as the place doesn't take reservations and closes at 9:30pm.

• Bulle restaurant de Fourvière, 9 Place de Fourvière, 69005 Lyon. Tel: 04 30 30 32 16
• www.bullerestaurantfourviere.fr

Things to see, things to do...

Les Halles de Lyon, Paul Bocuse.

A symbol of a city that lays claim to the title of gastronomic capital of France, these Halles logically bring together Lyon's delicacies and national specialties. A must-see, therefore, from 7/8 a.m. to take time to admire the stalls and chat with the shopkeepers. Around fifty of them take over these legendary halles, including some of the great names in Lyonnais gastronomy. The Cellerier charcuterie, which has been making brioche and truffle sausages for four generations; the Beillevaire house, with its legendary cheeses and butters Giraudet and its quenelles, and the chocolatier Sève with his pralines, macaroons and entremets (the apricot one is to die for) ....These are just some of the addresses that have made the reputation of a cuisine acclaimed the world over.

• 102, cours Lafayette. 69003 Lyon
• www.lyon.fr

La Croix Rousse

Our favorite neighborhood! Now ultra-popular, Croix Rousse has not escaped gentrification, but it has managed to preserve a popular and, above all, moving spirit.It's a very moving place, where you can discover the history of the Canuts, the weavers who repeatedly revolted against unacceptable working conditions. Transformed into galleries or boutiques, the old buildings that housed the jacquard looms have retained their imposing volumes, and you can still walk through the traboules, the covered passageways that linked the different workshops. The Maison des Canuts pays tribute to them, as does the incredible 1,200 m2 painted wall depicting them at work, and the Cour des Voraces, one of the key sites of the 1831-1834 uprisings. Take a stroll along the sloping streets, stopping off at the L'Instant poétique concept store, the Bonnes Sœurs boutique with its ex-voto items, or the Le Livre en pente bookshop with its vintage editions of art and literature.

• L'instant poétique, 129 boulevard de la Croix Rousse, 69004. Tel 04 78 98 66 45
• Bonnes Sœurs 8 rue du Chariot d'or, 69004. Tel 09 66 90 76 28
• Le Livre en pente, 18 rue des pierres plantées. 69001. Tel 09 50 05 00 35

Galerie Le Réverbère

Set on the Croix-Rousse hill, this art gallery is one of the city's must-sees. Catherine Dérioz and Jacques Damez were the driving force behind the creation of this 300 m2 space back in 1981, with the aim of sharing their passion for, and culture of, photography. Over the course of four decades, the duo have organized more than 200 in situ and 1000 off-site exhibitions, championing a diverse and demanding approach to the discipline with a perfect mix of emerging talent and established artists. Their exhibitions always make the news, like the eagerly-awaited Inde(s) au pluriel, which this autumn will bring together images by William Klein, Bernard Plossu, Denis Roche, Marc Riboud and Françoise Nunez....

• 38 rue Burdeau 69001 Lyon. Tel 04 72 00 06 72
• www.galerielereverbere.com

The Lumière Institute

Suddenly, a stream of workers appears on the screen as they leave the factory - on foot, perched on bicycles, amidst frolicking dogs?This film, the first of its kind in the world, dates back to 1895 and is one of the many gems to be found in the Art Deco home of the Lumière brothers. A mecca for all cinephiles, this interactive museum allows visitors to discover the brothers' inventions (magic lantern, praxinoscope) as well as the Hangar du Premier-Film, where Louis Lumière installed his cinematograph on March 18, 1895. Transformed into a screening room, it offers an interesting program with, on each seat, the name of a director who has contributed to the history of the seventh art.

• 25 rue du Premier Film, 69008 Lyon. Tel: 04 78 78 18 95
• www.institut-lumiere.org

Parc de la Tête d'Or

This is France's largest urban park, where you can spend the whole day lazing on the riverbank, discovering the 400 species of wildlife housed in the zoo, or admiring the many attractions on offer.the zoo, admire the 16,000 species in the botanical garden, greenhouses and rose garden... Sports enthusiasts can also explore the 117-hectare park by bike, rollerblade or scooter. And the most courageous can continue their stroll along the banks of the Rhône and Saône rivers, now landscaped, with the added pleasure of discovering the moored barges. Our favorites? La Marquise and the Star Ferry, where you can enjoy a refreshing beer or mojito...

• Parc de la Tête d'Or. Main entrance on Quai du Rhône, 400m after Pont de Lattre de Tassigny.
• La Marquise, 20 quai Victor Augagneur, 69003. Tel 04 72 61 92 92
• Star ferry, 2 quai Victor Augagneur, 69003. Tel 04 72 60 97 18

One more escape

Canal flea market

A paradise for all flea market enthusiasts... Set on some 6 hectares along the Villeurbanne canal, just 20 minutes from the center of Lyon, this huge open-air market brings together 200 stores and 400 occasional unpackings of real treasures: tableware, prints and paintings, furniture from the 60s and 70s, Scandinavian tables and sideboards, as well as beautiful vintage fashions. Not to be missed is the original Puces du Canal building, home to antique dealers and traders specializing in French furniture from the 16th to the 20th centuries. A must-see before sipping a glass of wine on the terrace of the Guinguette du Canal or at the Broc'café a stone's throw away.

• Thursday and Saturday, 7 a.m.-1 p.m., Sunday 7 a.m.-3 p.m.
• 5 rue Eugène Potier 69100 Villeurbanne