More and more a great table, more and more close to the three toques. Clément Briand-Seurat, whom we've been following, rewarding and encouraging for a number of years, is asserting himself as the leader of the new wave in this well-known house in the old heart. As he has grown up, he has put a stop to surprise menus for a more mature clientele, and everyone can now appreciate his mastery of well-choreographed and announced dishes. A pleasant start with olive and pissalat, a fine suite "around the Thau lagoon", shellfish and fish from the fish market, a very pleasant mushroom interlude before the pig from the Monts Lagast, head to tail, apples, black garlic and salsify, a clean, gourmet dish on a blood sausage gravy and mustard seed pickles. Light, sophisticated desserts (pear and vinegar verbena, citrus textures...), a rich and varied wine list, led by a sharp young sommelier, but a very slim selection of wines by the glass.