Mushrooms: go foraging before moving on to these chefs' tables

The mushroom is much more than a simple ingredient: it's a gastronomic emblem, a natural heritage and an exploration ground for the curious. A number of Gault&Millau-referenced establishments have understood this and offer their guests unique experiences of mushroom picking and discovery in the forest. Here's a selection of establishments where a passion for mushrooms can be experienced both on the plate and in the wild.

Les Maisons Marcon, Haute-Loire

Nestled at an altitude of 1,200 metres, Les Maisons Marcon enjoys exceptional biodiversity. Here, the mushroom is not just an ingredient: it's a veritable symbol. Every week in season, guests can take a stroll with Jérôme Legros, a passionate mushroom picker and mycologist. In spring and summer, the focus is on wild flowers and herbs. But from September onwards, they become true mycological explorations, a "treasure hunt" in the heart of one of France's richest areas. These outings, lasting around two hours and costing €10 per person, are a great success. They appeal to nature lovers and gourmets alike, who can sample up to 30 different varieties of mushroom prepared by our chefs at the restaurant.

• Where to find us Larsiallas, 43290 Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid
• Tel: 04 71 59 93 72
• Read the Gault&Millau review of Régis et Jacques Marcon (5 toques)

Le Manoir du Lys, in Orne

On the edge of the Andaines forest, Le Manoir du Lys, a charming house with a 3-toque label, makes autumn rhyme with mycology. Every year, from late September to early November, the establishment offers themed weekends around mushrooms, combining discovery, conviviality and gastronomy.the program is rich and varied: a visit to the Bagnoles-de-l'Orne market, a cookery course given by chef Franck Quinton with food and wine pairings selected by the sommelier, forest walkst 2h30 accompanied by a mycologist, classification of species harvested and, of course, gourmet dinners and lunches where the mushroom is the star.several packages are available from €705.

• Where to find us Route de Juvigny la Croix Gauthier, 61140 Bagnoles-de-l'Orne
• Tel: 02 33 37 80 69
• Read the Gault&Millau review of Le Manoir du Lys (3 toques)

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Château de Vault-de-Lugny, in Yonne

In the heart of Burgundy, Château de Vault-de-Lugny offers a prestigious experience: truffle hunting. in autumn, guests set off into the forest, guided by truffle dogs, in search of the "black diamond". Once found, the truffles find their way to Franco Bowanee's ovens, where he sublimates both the mushrooms of neighboring forests and Burgundy truffles in his refined menus.

• Where? 11, rue du Château, 89200 Vault-de-Lugny
• Tel: 03 86 34 07 86
• Read the Gault&Millau review of Château de Vault-de-Lugny (2 toques)

Ar Duen - Domaine de La Hardouinais, in Côtes-d'Armor

In Brittany, the Ar Duen hotel-restaurant invites guests on forest walks to learn how to recognize and pick mushrooms. Guided by David Le Bars, the Domaine's head gardener, these outings combine education and pleasure, before concluding with a moment of sharing around the treasures harvested. This immersion in Breton nature, priced at €35 per person, celebrates local riches and extends the gastronomic experience at the table.

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• Where to find us Le Bourg, 22230 Saint-Launeuc
• Tel: 02 96 56 14 59
• Read the Gault&Millau review of Ar Duen