After Orgueil, Eloi Spinnler spices up Parisian life with his new restaurant Colère

Mathieu Dubus | 9/20/24, 3:05 PM

The young chef, just turned thirty, is about to open his second restaurant. After the first Sin Capital, Orgueil, it's the turn of the volcanic Colère to see the light of day in the 9ᵉ arrondissement of Paris.

After the success ofOrgueil (2 toques) located in the 11ᵉ arrondissement, chef Éloi Spinnler continues his exploration of the seven deadly sins in the kitchen with the opening of a second restaurant: Colère. The venue is 39 rue Richer in the 9ᵉ arrondissement of Paris. This new project continues his creative vision, blending haute gastronomy and symbolism. Here's what's in store.

A spicy culinary universe

"We hesitated a lot about how we were going to convey anger on the plate. We could have done it with embers, fire or others, but we realized that there were more and more peppers produced in France. The reason is quite simple: where peppers grow, chillies grow. So we thought we'd work with chillies and peppers the French way", confides the chef.

To achieve this, Eloi Spinnler had to meet new producers in the Calvados and Perche regions. An ambitious chef, his commitment to the product doesn't stop there: "The pepper producers are a bit of a challenge for us at the moment. Eventually, I'd like every dish to have its own chili pepper, and for us to work on that." He adds: "For the moment, we're more focused on getting large quantities. Like other ingredients, chillies are seasonal. At the moment, we receive 40 kg a week to produce our annual fermented chillies."

As chillies are a divisive product, "we try to ensure that the dishes are still edible by all." A case in point is the "Russian roulette" starter, made up of five brioche puff pastry rolls, each with a different flavor, including one made "with the fermented chili pepper we make ourselves." This was a long-term project for the chef: "Making this menu took us a long time. We did a total of eight tastings at Orgueil pour Colère. We changed dishes up to four times to adjust them."

A tailor-made restaurant

As with his first restaurant, Eloi Spinnler wanted "to have a place in which we have the tools we want, with the exact concept as we imagined it". Eight months of major renovation work were undertaken to turn the establishment into the restaurant the chef had envisioned. The decor is by Friedmann & Versace. Their mission was to recreate a mythological aspect, as seen in the dragon-shaped fireplace, which plunges the bistro's guests straight into a fiery atmosphere.

The restaurant, like Orgueil, is divided into two parts: the bistro, the visible face of the iceberg, and the "Theatre", a room hidden from view. It stands opposite the ovens, which can be seen in the distance as you open the doors. This somewhat unique concept of reusing bistro leftovers and transforming them into tasting menus has been taken a step further. The identity remains the same, except that here, we're talking about spices and, above all, theater. A space whose "objective is to create a differentiating customer experience. A curtain will cover the entrance, diners will be given a ticket as if you were coming to the theater, and finally the menus will be separated into different acts like a play", develops Eloi Spinnler.

And the price? Plates start at 8 euros on the bistro side for starters, such as an egg volcano with mayonnaise, and go up to 44 euros for a tasty pork chop. TheTheater sectionoffers a 5-course menu at 58 euros and a second 7-course menu at 78 euros. (Coming soon, the opinion of a Gault&Millau investigator)