5 dining cellars to discover now

France is rich in culinary traditions and unique places to enjoy fine food. Among these treasures are the caves à manger, intimate establishments that artfully combine a passion for wine (or other beverages) and fine dining. These warm, authentic places offer an unforgettable sensory experience, combining oenological discoveries and gastronomic pleasures. From Marseille to Dinard, by way of Paris, Gault&Millau invites you on a journey through five exceptional caves à manger. Each of these addresses stands out for its uniqueness, its selection of wines and its tempting culinary proposals, so here are five to note for your next gourmet escapades.

Livingston, Marseille

Julia Mitton, Harry Cummins and Laura Vidal, already behind Le Chardon in Arles and La Mercerie in Marseille, have launched Livingston (1 toque), also in the city of Marseille, in June 2021. This is a wine bar/bistro in association with Valentin Raffali, whom the general public discovered thanks to Top Chef season 15. On the strength of this experience, the young chef has decided to explore other horizons without giving up everything. So, for the next few months, Livingston will be hosting chef residencies, giving chefs carte blanche to present their cuisine. For this first session, the resident team is Bits and Bobs, straight from Amsterdam. On the program: pretty plates and lively wines, with a big preference for orange wine! And for those with a sweet tooth, don't worry: "the famous dildonut, revisited with different flavors depending on the week", is permanently on the menu, the Livingston team tells us.

• Where to find us Livingston, 5 rue Crudère, 13006 Marseille
• www.livingstonmarseille.com

Franck Ménégaux

Ritournelle, Dinard

From the outset, Ritournelle makes its convictions clear, promising a delightful dining experience. At the helm are Miléna Cugny and Benjamin Joinville, who have joined forces to open this former janitor's house in Dinard's Port-Breton park to the public. On the program: 400 references of live wines and, in season, Ritournelle "calls on chefs in residence, such as Victoria Nabi at the beginning of this summer, who has worked at Taillevent and Septime". Eggplant salad with miso vinaigrette, pork belly glazed with spices and pointed cabbage, whelks with chili mayonnaise... all delicious dishes to enjoy with a glass of wine! "We take particular care with our selection from the Jura," stresses the La Ritournelle team. Good to know: Ritournelle recently opened a wine cellar in Saint-Malo.

• Where to find us? Ritournelle, 2 rue de l'Isle Celée, 35800 Dinard
• www.ritournelle-dinard.fr

CookHeure

Soif - La Cave, in La Madeleine

Head north to warm up at Soif - La Cave, opened by Pierre and Antoine, already behind Saisons - Cave à Manger (2 toques) in La Madeleine. The duo, who trained with Florent Ladeyn, have teamed up with sommelier Emilion to offer a range of live wines, craft beers and non-alcoholic drinks. " For the catering side, we offer 100% local finger food, with products sourced exclusively from the Hauts-de-France region," say Antoine and Pierre. On the menu: tzatziki, bread crumble and fennel; shredded beef, tomato ketchup, snack cherry tomatoes and tomato water; or leek vinaigrette, gribiche sauce!

• Where to eat Soif - La Cave, 84 rue du Général de Gaulle, 59110 La Madeleine, France
• www.saisons-caveamanger.com

MrHuman

Septime La Cave, Paris

Septime (2 toques), one of the capital's trendiest gastronomic restaurants, needs no introduction. But did you know that Septime La Cave is just a few steps away? An annex of the main restaurant, it's a simple cellar with some fine bowling, but also a few nibbles. For example, Ganevat, La Tournelle and Les Bottes Rouges stand alongside a generous terrine of porc noir de Bigorre and trompettes des morts, beef ham with laurel oil and roasted almonds, and leek with vinaigrette and mimosa sauce.

• Where to eat? Septime La Cave, 3 rue Basfroi, 75011 Paris
• www.septime-lacave.fr

Mickaël A. Bandassak

Bar à Vin 1755, in Ajaccio

If your vacation takes you on the road to Ajaccio, Corsica, make a detour to Bar à Vin 1755. You'll discover a lively place offering wines, cocktails and softs, to be sipped around trendy small plates such as zucchini fritters, razor clams with parsley or even homemade tiramisu. Gourmets will love the "À Nustrale" board featuring sheep's milk cheese, porcu Neru organic sausage, myrtle terrine, fig jam and other local charcuterie.

• Where to find us Bar à Vin 1755, 15 rue Roi de Rome, 20000 Ajaccio
• www.baravin1755.com