48 hours in the Périgord

Nouvelle-Aquitaine/2022

Périgueux, on the banks of the Isle, Brantôme, on the banks of the Dronne, Nontron, capital of the cutlery industry, and all around, forests, hills, valleys, a landscape of astonishing greenery that contrasts with the image of a gentle countryside of ochre tones and pale stone houses. Green Périgord is both mysterious and familiar, a little Normandy in the land of the sun, geographically and naturally close to the Limousin.

Périgueux, capital of the Dordogne department, is an ancient city with a charming historic center. The Vesunna site preserves vestiges from every era, starting with the Vésone tower, an ancient Gallo-Roman temple. The starting point for any stroll is in front of the Cathedral Saint-Front, a magnificent edifice built in Romanesque style, then completed in Gothic and adorned with Byzantine-inspired domes. Then just follow the narrow streets, admire the Renaissance townhouses, move on to the pretty Place Saint-Louis and reach the Mataguerre tower, which dates back to the 14th-century ramparts. For shopping and a drink, meet up at Place du Coderc, near the tourist office, with its central halles. As you stroll through the town, you're sure to come across one of the metal sculptures designed by former rugby player Jean-Pierre Rives, entitled Les Rubans de la mémoire (Ribbons of Memory), a tribute to the sportsmen and women who lost their lives in the war. Head north via Agonac, on a pretty, leafy road that leads to Brantôme - with a side trip to admire the Château de Bourdeilles. On the banks of the Dronne, Brantôme is a jewel of great archaeological wealth. The town is actually set in a loop of the river, bordered on the other side of one of the five bridges by the splendid Benedictine abbey. Via Champagnac-de-Belair, Quinsac and Saint-Pardoux-la-Rivière, you'll reach Nontron, the heart of green Périgord, in the Périgord-Limousin regional nature park. Home to an ancestral cutlery industry, Nontron hosts the annual Knife Festival. Traditionally made from boxwood, the Nontron knife features a cylindrical handle. Craftsmanship also plays an important role in the town, and an exhibition in the château showcases a wide range of arts and crafts. Around Nontron, there's no shortage of natural attractions on the borders of the department: to the north, the Saint-Estèphe lake and its leisure park, Piégut-Pluviers and its Wednesday market; to the east, Saint-Saud-Lacoussière, as well as Thiviers and its foie gras museum; to the north-west, Bussière-Badil and the pretty Tardoire valley, Varaignes and its turkey fair...