Pagaille

Rating: 12
Author: Gault&Millau

46 Rue Ramey, 75018 Paris, France

12/20
Gourmet Restaurant

3 PHOTOS

Cooking: French | Iberian | Italian | Mediterranean
Services: Privatization

Gault&Millau's review 2025

A new table sowing the seeds of flavor in the 18ᵉ arrondissement thanks to a young chef, Louis Robergeau, who most recently passed through Mauro Colagreco's Mirazur. Indeed, his cosmopolitan bistro cuisine, with its Italian, Portuguese, Spanish and French influences, takes diners on a journey through a frankly creative menu, offering, for example, an astonishing variation on onion, cooked in salt, caramelized in a siphon and powdered, parmesan cream, or this land-sea starter with barbecued split peas, almonds, spider meat and a punchy bisque, before the grilled fish of the day or the less exciting barbecued pigeon, accompanied by beet in mousseline, chunks, walnuts and treviso leaves. Desserts are just as inventive, with chocolate ganache with capers, olive oil and Breton shortbread, or homemade sorbet with fennel jam, fennel-scented fennel and almond praline. In the basement, a large table overlooks the kitchen for a festive evening with friends or family. Relaxed service and a small wine list with well-known names (Stéphane Ogier, François Villard...) at reasonable prices.