La Tête en l'Air

56000 VANNES

13.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

15 PHOTOS

Chef Clément Raby

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Local

Services Takeaway

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

50€ à 110€

Gault&Millau's review

13.5/20

Chef's Restaurant Libre! In this lively, mixed-race, picturesque street, just off the port, the elegant, narrow façade proudly announces the color: "Cuisine libre". Clément Raby's claim to freedom is loud and clear, but the customer doesn't really have it, since all menus are offered "blind". You have to be willing to play the game to appreciate a seasonal cuisine (we're talking about "micro-seasonality" here...), very elaborate, almost sophisticated, with skilfully contrasted flavours (with an appetite for acidity) to keep you awake throughout the meal. In short, these are compositions of character that could perhaps benefit from some toning down, but which are underpinned by impeccable technique. What should I mention? This beautiful red mullet, for example. Fennel - in pickles and purée - suits it so well! Mediterranean interpretation with aïoli, fish soup-based sauce, hints of harissa, focaccia... Lobster cooked at low temperature then marinated overnight (rice alcohol, miso, soy...) on which a fine bisque is poured. Next to it, a cannelloni stuffed with claw meat and lacquered with beet juice. A beet jelly replaces the miso mayonnaise. Southern inspiration continues with a beautiful veal fillet covered in hazelnut-mint breadcrumbs and flanked by a pesto with the same ingredients. Sunshine comes in the form of an olive tapenade that energizes the veal jus, artichoke (in cream and barigoule form) and a salad of boulghour hazelnut mint lemon confit artichoke cream seasoned with Kalamata oil... As for the desserts, they provide the expected freshness and lightness. For example, the one that best combines - among other elements - gavotte, whisky, buckwheat, crème diplomate with caramel... Let's not forget to salute the enthusiasm of the service and the wisdom of the prices. The wine list is concise. Serious and reassuring references: givry from domaine Joblot, pouilly-fumé from domaine Jonathan Pabiot, chablis from domaine Alain Mathias, Roc de Cambes...