La Table du Liziec

56000 VANNES
16/20
 Remarkable Restaurant
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14 PHOTOS
Chef
Olivier Samson
Cooking
French | Gastronomic
Services
Accomodation
Style
Elegant | Romantic
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
95 € to 145 €

Gault&Millau's review

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant Olivier Samson has left his Gourmandière on the edge of town. Here he is now, still on the outskirts of town, in a radically different universe, that of a very fine hotel, in the middle of a 6-hectare park that also gives way to numerous ornamental gardens and very straight vegetable patches. He acclimatized very quickly, and this new challenge gives him a boost that we can only applaud. After amuse-bouches that are not just conventional nibbles, but very pretty creations, it's time for the starter. It's a pure pleasure to taste this candied abalone, which has left its natural environment for terra firma, with a buckwheat creaminess that adds sweetness, and the subtly sour notes of coarse milk that so misrepresent their name, which usefully punctuate this composition, which is also enhanced by a racy pig juice. A few sea herbs also sprinkle the dish with just the right touch. A deceptively simple dish that's sure to please! Next, the sole lives up to its billing: impeccable quality, freshness and cooking. It's not a show-stopping sequence, but it's frighteningly effective: the first green asparagus combines perfectly with the kumquat and the pak choï cabbage. The gin-scented beurre d'arêtes - a zealous matchmaker - is a model of balance. The Morbihan pigeon, fleshy and delicate, is enhanced by a cocoa-flavored cooking juice. Delicious peas are prepared "à la française", but by the grace of a pirouette, it's lard de colonnata that finally invites itself to the table. Cabbage and artichoke are also featured, and the tour ends with a royale d'abattis topped with a leg of pigeon confit. A large-scale dish, very well conceived and skilfully executed. Finally, grapefruit and orange, Timur (or timut) pepper and ribot milk come together for this very well thought-out dessert, whose freshness is matched only by the different flavors that juxtapose and respond to each other in perfect harmony. What more can we say? That the "main" room is very elegant and comfortable, a little solemn, and that the service is fluid, efficient and so smiling! Another word, of course, about the thick cellar book which, while offering some great bottles, has the great wisdom to offer affordable wines too. A fine selection: bouzeron from domaine Aubert de Villaine, rully from domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial, givry "Cuvée Amélie" from domaine Guillemette et Xavier Besson, mercurey "Village" from Fanny Sabre, chablis grand cru from Benjamin Laroche, chablis "Village" from Thomas Pico, brouilly from Robert Perroud, fleurie from Lucien Lardy, juliénas from Pascal Aufranc, savennière from Thibaud Boudignon..
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Address 20 Route de Rennes
56000 Vannes
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    Olivier Samson Chef
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