Le Relais de Brocéliande

35380 PAIMPONT

13/20
Chef's Restaurant

Chef Jean-Alexandre Ouattara

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Local

Services Accomodation | Garden | Terrace

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

19€ à 40€

Gault&Millau's review

13/20

Chef's Restaurant Grand de Demain 2018 at Château de Bagnols, the talented Jean-Alexandre Ouattara joined the Agapa in Perros-Guirec for a few short years. As if by magic - the fairies of the Brocéliande forest sometimes reserve good surprises - or more likely to follow his Breton wife, here he is now at the head of the kitchens of a well-known restaurant, but which until then had only limited culinary ambitions. Admittedly, we're a long way from the prestigious places he once frequented, but this house with its emblematic regional architecture lacks neither comfort nor charm. The large dining room - a model of sobriety - is pleasantly luminous. Service is relaxed and efficient, if a little rushed. Jean-Alexandre doesn't have all his firepower to spare, but in this new register where prices don't have to soar, he's very much at ease. His technique, meticulous selection of products and sense of well-paced combinations are intact. For example, this fresh red tuna is aptly magnified by vanilla notes and the acidity of lemon. The crunchiness of the cauliflower semolina (the term "brassica semolina" lends itself to a smile...) is pleasantly tempered by a cream beaten with yuzu ponzu. The next dish is an invitation to travel. The low-temperature monkfish is surrounded by a sheet of nori and vibrates with the happy combination of a mango rougail and a well-calibrated coconut-curry emulsion. The dessert also lives up to its name. Lovely scarlet Breton strawberries, a delicate meringue and a soft fromage blanc foam pleasantly jostled by a lightly spiced syrup. The cellar plays the card of sure values (menetou salon from domaine Remoortere, vouvray from Vincent Carême, Château Mont-Redon, alsace from domaine Jean Sipp...) The wine service could gain in expertise.

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