Auberge Saint-Laurent

68510 SIERENTZ

15/20
Remarkable Restaurant

5 PHOTOS

Chef Laurent Arbeit

Cooking French | Traditional

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

57€ à 119€

Gault&Millau's review

15/20

Remarkable Restaurant The adorable 18th-century half-timbered coaching inn, with its abundance of flowers and its village setting, remains the obligatory Sundgauvian stopover between Mulhouse and the Swiss border. The Arbeit family have carefully nurtured the warm soul of the place, while the inimitable charm of the adjoining dining rooms, with their brand-new, ornate decor, adds to the warmth and conviviality. The recipe for success? Remarkable teamwork around a first-rate brigade, some of whose members have been loyal customers for over 30 years. Chef Laurent Arbeit, who has worked at L'Auberge de l'Ill, Pierre Carrier and Alain Ducasse, revisits the classics of Alsatian gastronomy, with a modern twist and a hint of inventiveness. We can't get enough of this foie gras de canard mi-cuit "comme l'aimait mon papa" served with choucroute confit and quince caramel. The langoustine ceviche on the menu has become a ceviche of sea bream and langoustines by the time it's served: it comes with crunchy fennel and a deliciously regressive sabayon, even if two spoonfuls seem like too much. Presented in the form of a cylinder of impeccable aesthetics and topped with a pretzel crust, the pike-perch back is well cooked and the accompanying risotto very well put together, but is it really worth slipping in frogs' legs? On the day of our visit, the pigeon tourtelette was replaced by a meaty, farm-raised squab from Alsace, served with a smoked breast parmentier and a warm beet salad with blueberries for a tangy touch. The sweet moments are far from playing the role of extras, like this little vacherin glacé interpreted as a Black Forest and enhanced by vanilla, morello cherries and a red fruit sauce, whereas the menu announced a chocolate sauce. The petits fours, nicely garnished with a cloche, are served too cold, as if they'd just come out of cold storage. Lionel Oberlé now offers glasses of wine from prestigious vintages, thanks to the D-Vine concept.