Il Cortile

68100 MULHOUSE

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

Chef Jean-Michel Feger

Cooking Italian

Services Disabled access

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

45€ à 135€

Gault&Millau's review

14/20

Chef's Restaurant Set against a remnant of the city's ramparts, the Cour des Chaînes, with its spiral turret and cobblestones, is listed as a historic monument and occupies one of Mulhouse's few old quarters. Whether on the dreamy terrace or in the exclusively round-table dining room, the chiaroscuro ambiance is a must for lovers of romantic dining. Jean-Michel Feger, who has been with the restaurant since it was founded in 2001, offers French cuisine with transalpine accents. The pumpkin panna cotta, with black garlic condiment and pumpkin pickles, is an appetizer to which roasted hazelnuts add a lot of pep. The breaded poached egg, in an amusing confrontation of soft and crunchy textures, goes well with sweet onions and a delicious taleggio cream. Combined with chanterelles, almonds and young leeks, and concealed under a disk of lasagne dough, langoustines are sublimated by a short cooking time and a creamy bisque. While we appreciate the boldness of the "fennel sausage" that accompanies the sea bass, the result seemed to us to lack class, even if the fish, underscored by celery and artichoke peppers, gave us all the pleasure we'd hoped for. The dessert combining pumpkin, kumquat and saffron is in the same bold vein: the greediness of the cream and shortbread offsets the austerity of the jellied, sugar-free pumpkin. The dessert, made with Hukambi grand cru chocolate, would be a real delicacy for chocophiles if the proportion of passion fruit didn't outweigh that of chocolate. Service is always just-in-time, and the cellar is in keeping with the Franco-Italian tone of the house, with a generous selection of some twenty wines by the glass.