Summer wines: 5 "terroir" wines from Provence
Provence has become a sea of rosé wines, and it's not always easy to find your way around. In order to distinguish itself qualitatively from the generic côtes-de-provence appellation, five DGCs (denominations géographiques contrôlées) have been recognized by the Inao since 2005. The specifications adopted are demanding in terms of grape provenance, choice of grape varieties, blending, yields and production rules. But these distinctions are not limited to rosé. They are also used to promote white and red wines. Of the 20,000 ha of Côtes-de-Provence, nearly 1,100 ha stand out.
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Côtes-de-provence Sainte-Victoire (1)
(652 ha, DGC since 2005)
Château Grand Boise
Rosé
2021
A rosé characterized above all by its digestibility. Delicate, fresh and long on the palate, it's best served with a fine tomato and rosemary tart.
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Côtes-de-provence Fréjus (2)
(24 ha DGC since 2005)
Château Paquette
Cuvée "Angelico
Rosé
2021
A gourmet, iodized, spicy rosé whose freshness is perfect for an aperitif with seafood tapas.
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Côtes-de-provence La Londe (3)
(148 ha, DGC since 2008)
Château Maravenne
Cuvée "Don de Dieu
White
2021
A confidential white with a creamy, savory mouthfeel. A velvety mouthfeel that titillates the palate and the floral finish seduces with its length. Perfect as an aperitif.
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Côtes-de-provence Pierrefeu (4)
(166 ha, DGC since 2013)
Château Hermitage Saint-Martin
Cuvée "Ikon
Red
2019
A delicate, powerful red with a powdery patina. The wine is velvety and saline. Easily digestible, it can be served with grilled meats or prime rib.
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Côtes-de-provence Notre-Dame-des-Anges (5)
(97 ha, DGC since 2019)
Château Demonpère
Red
2019
Fine, aromatic and chiselled, this red has a freshness and palatability that will allow it to be served with an olive-based aperitif. A focaccia, for example, comes to mind.
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Should we trust the medals on the bottles?
On a supermarket shelf, similar-looking bottles of wine are lined up at slightly contrasting prices. Without a salesperson, in a time-constrained food shopping area, a sticker placed like a jewel cuts through the act of purchasing. Gold, silver or bronze medals flash more brightly than a label that's not always easy to decipher. Award-winning wine, featured wine An award-winning wine is one that has been presented by the winery at one of the 127 competitions that award these precious badges (in 2024, according to the DGCCRF). The famous Concours Général Agricole, founded in 1870, the world's best Chardonnay or Sauvignon competitions, the Brittany or Mâcon wine competitions, the Millésime Bio challenge... There's an embarrassment of riches to choose from, with no limit on participation, but not without a heavy hand in the wallet. For each cuvée entered, you'll need to pay between 10 and 150 euros, depending on the competition, not including postage and packaging costs and the purchase of macaroons in the event of victory. Attractive spin-offs A potentially interesting calculation, given the commercial visibility these awards bring. In the year following the award, sales of the vintage tend to increase by between 20% and 40%. A boon for the estate, event organizers and supermarkets alike. All the more so as the medals are pouring in. In 2025, at the Concours Général Agricole, of the 12129 wines entered, 3361 were awarded medals, almost half of them gold. French legislation prohibits the awarding of more than a third of the samples presented. A quota with which most competitions flirt. Amateur jury Who awards these accolades? A volunteer jury, at their own expense. Mostly amateurs. The great need for people leaves little room for rigor or traceability. In 2025, at the Concours Général Agricole, over 7,000 people were needed to taste charcuterie, cheeses, jams and wines. At this year's Chardonnay du Monde competition, more than 300 jurors took part, with a limit of 20 samples per person. The most famous estates, which don't need to boost their sales, tend to neglect these competitions. Artisanal wineries, on the other hand, may shy away from these competitions as a matter of distinction, since the shiny stickers are associated with supermarkets. A place where it takes the place of good professional advice. A wine merchant, for example, capable of selling the uniqueness of a cuvée he has followed over the years.
Fabrice Pouillon: his champagne method
Fabrice Pouillon is the third generation to run the family domaine at Mareuil-sur-Aÿ in the Marne region of France, and he has an intrinsic respect for the heritage he has inherited: respect for the vines and for fine work. Constantly questioning himself, curious and eager to experiment, the Champenois celebrates his 26th harvest this September.
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