The great breakthrough of yellow wines
Like every year, La Percée du Vin Jaune celebrates the release of the new vintage of Vin Jaune. From February 3 to 5, over 25,000 people will flock to the village of Voiteur in the Jura to celebrate the 2016 vintage. To mark the occasion, Gault&Millau presents its three tasting favorites.
The oldest vintage of vin jaune tasted dates back to 1774! Outside the Jura, vins de voile - as these wines with their immense ageing potential are known - are produced in Andalusia, with sherry, or in Sardinia, with Vernaccia di Oristano. Jura gold is made from the Savagnin grape variety and, once fermentation is complete, is aged for at least six years and three months in oak barrels without racking or topping up (adding wine to compensate for the reduction in volume), and without any human intervention. A veil of yeast (or biofilm) forms on the surface of the barrel, protecting the wine from oxidation and air contact. The vin jaune is then bottled in the famous clavelin: a 62-cl bottle, bearing in mind that 1 liter of grape juice is reduced to 62 cl, taking into account the famous "angels' share". In the glass, it's an explosion of aromas, dominated by walnuts, spices (curry, saffron...), Granny Smith apples and citrus fruit. Vin jaune originates from Château-Chalon, but is also produced in the arbois, étoile and côtes-du-jura appellations. Now you know all about vin jaune and its fabulous qualities. Now it's time to taste!
Our favorite: Fumey-Chatelain, Arbois, vin jaune
Domaine Fumey-Chatelain is located in Montigny-lès-Arsures, in the Arbois appellation area. This beautiful estate now totals 17 hectares and is in the process of converting to organic farming.
Tasting notes: This yellow wine from Domaine Fumey-Chatelain more than seduced our jury with its great aromatic complexity. To the eye, the wine is slightly cloudy. On the nose, we enter the world of yellow wine with notes of apple, brioche, vanilla and subtle hints of walnut. A very elegant nose. On the palate, the attack is frank with roasted aromas. The second palate is dense and evolves on freshness dominated by apple or citrus fruit with a little taste of return. The finish is long, very long, with aromas of toasted nuts. The wine is still evolving in the glass and on the palate. On the verge of perfection.
- Score: 98/100
- Appellation : Arbois
- Vintage : 2015
- Retail price : Between €50 and €60
Le numéro 2 : Caveau de Bacchus by Lucien Aviet & Fils, yellow wine
Présentation du domaine : The Aviet family is well known in the Jura vineyards. They cultivate six hectares of vines in Montigny-lès-Arsures, using sustainable viticulture methods.
Tasting notes: The reputation of the domaine's yellow wines is well established, and fully justified. The nose is greedy with aromas of fresh walnut, lemon and vanilla. The palate is concentrated, with both zesty and candied citrus fruit. It evolves on a second palate of spices and walnuts. The finish is heady. What more could you ask for? A meditative wine to be enjoyed as a spirit. As an aperitif or after a meal. Don't forget that you can prolong the pleasure by re-corking the bottle.
- Score : 96/100
- Appellation : Arbois
- Vintage : 2014
- Retail price : Between €70 and €80
Number 3: Domaine Grand, "En Beaumont
Domaine presentation: Domaine Grand cultivates 11 hectares in the process of converting to organic farming in the commune of Passenans.
Tasting notes: Domaine Grand's Château Chalon is definitely one of our favorites of the tasting. The nose is subtle and elegant, with aromas of walnut, vanilla, citrus and spices such as vanilla. The palate is powerful and warm, with a fine concentration of aromas. We find the same aromas with a long finish of walnut, vanilla and nutmeg. A cuvée that will delight yellow wine lovers.
- Score : 91/100
- Appellation : Château-chalon
- Vintage: 2016
- Retail price: €60
What rating?
Our selection of yellow wines was tasted and judged blind by two tasters who rated the wines on the following criteria: appearance, complexity on the nose (intensity, quality, etc.), richness of aromas on the palate (persistence of aromas, length on the palate, etc.) and harmony on the palate.), richness of aromas on the palate (persistence of aromas, length on the palate, etc.) and overall harmony.
Thanks to Diane Souquière (wine buyer and editor)
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