Endive from Ferme Chauwin

For the record, it was a Belgian, Monsieur Bréziers, who discovered chicory. In 1850, to save on taxes, this mischievous gardener hid chicory plants in his cellar. A few weeks later, small, spindly white plants sprang up from the earth. The chicory was born!

Today, France is the world's leading chicory producer, ahead of the Netherlands and Belgium. We owe this success to the Hauts-de-France region, which produces 95% of the national crop, but also to hydroponics, which became widely available in the 1980s. Nearly 98% of our endives are now hydroponic.

Before the advent of hydroponics, all farmers in the Nord-Pas-de-Calais region grew chicory in the ground. Even the village priest was involved. The traditional cultivation of chicon - as endive is still known in the region - is now attracting renewed interest, thanks in particular to a few enthusiasts. Like Christophe Chauwin, who wants to pass on his know-how to his children, so that endive and its distinctive flavours are not forgotten.

A family affair

A farmer from father to son, Christophe Chauwin heads Ferme Chauwin, founded by his grandfather between the wars in Épinoy. A fervent defender of tradition, he extracts the flavors of the Pas-de-Calais region through the production of fruit and vegetables: strawberries, potatoes, white asparagus... and chicory. The latter requires a lot of hard work, hence its nickname. The Chauwins have been growing it exclusively in soil since 1947, to preserve its crunchiness and perfect balance between bitterness and sweetness.

To achieve this, they concentrate on the excellence, alliance, topscore, ombline and flexine varieties. From April to May, he sows the various chicory seeds on his own plots, alternating them with wheat. After a few months, they give rise to roots, which are uprooted between mid-October and mid-November, to be kept in a vegetative state in cold rooms at a temperature close to 0°C.

Over time, between October and March, the young plants are transplanted. Farmers have learned their lesson well from Monsieur Bréziers: during this forcing period, the roots, buried in heated soil and watered two or three times a week, are plunged into total darkness. White leaves then appear, forming the endive we find on the shelves only during the winter months.

Where can I find Chauwin's endive?

Christophe Chauwin sells his endives at the Cambrai market, in local supermarkets and in his own store, nestled in his charming red-brick farmhouse. He also offers a number of endive-based recipes: gratins, pies and soups. A tasty way to rediscover this dish, whose bitterness has marked all those who have frequented school canteens.

To defend his crop - in both senses of the word - Christophe Chauwin is a member of the Association des producteurs d'endives de France (Apef), based in Arras. An obvious choice, he says, as since 2008, the association has been supporting small-scale growers who have to face up to the major challenges of modern agriculture. It also invests in research to develop new, more profitable varieties, and works to promote chicory. Thanks to this structure, but above all to the Endive de pleine terre association, the French Ministry of Agriculture awarded the Label rouge to endive de pleine terre in 2015. A victory for Christophe Chauwin, whose expertise is now recognized, supervised and encouraged.

Certified endive

Label Rouge endive differs from hydrocultured endive in that it is stockier and less elongated, has a firmer texture to the touch and a more subtle, pronounced taste in the mouth. This label should not be confused with the red endive, known as carmine, which is anecdotal but festive, often put on the table for special occasions.

• Where to buy? La Ferme Chauwin, 28, rue de Cambrai, 62860 Epinay, France
• www.lafermechauwin.com