The 10 who make Bordeaux

Bordeaux remains proud of its prestigious past, but is now resolutely looking to the future with the vitality of its art centers, the boldness of its new architecture and the restoration of its old districts.and the restoration of its old districts, such as the one around Saint-Pierre church, with its fantastic medieval houses and private mansions. Bordeaux has undergone a major rethink in terms of urban planning and green spaces, and is now more than ever a city where life is good. It's a city where you can get around on foot or by bike; where you can enjoy exceptional cuisine, accompanied by the world's finest wines; where you can laze on the waterfront quays, which fill up with bars and guinguettes in spring. In 2020, the New York Times voted Bordeaux the world's second best city to visit, and we couldn't agree more! From must-see spots to confidential hideaways, here are our exclusive addresses for savouring the best of Bordeaux.

Where to set down your suitcases?

• Pavlov House

In the heart of the bucolic Le Bouscat district, with its tall trees and gardens, this address, inaugurated in 2021, is owned by Maxime and Mary Rosselin, a restaurant couple well known in Bordeaux, notably for their delicious Le Chien de Pavlov. Determined to embark on their hotel adventure, Maxime and Mary have converted this former Carthusian monastery to welcome their guests in one of 8 rooms decorated in a very "contemporary British" spirit. Acid-colored walls, a graphic mix of fabrics and wallpapers... The charm is undeniable, and the already numerous loyal The charm is undeniable, and the already numerous loyal guests swear by this new refuge, which also boasts a gourmet restaurant, a Nohèm spa and a garden refreshed by a beautiful swimming pool.

Rooms from €310, breakfast included.

199, avenue de la Libération-Charles-de-Gaulle, Le Bouscat. T. 05 56 11 05 00.

• Renaissance Bordeaux

Built on the site of the Bassins à Flot, Bordeaux's up-and-coming industrial district, the Renaissance was inaugurated in 2021 on the banks of the Garonne, a stone's throw from the Cité du Vin. A member of the Marriott group and now one of the city's most sought-after addresses, the place delights all architecture lovers with its design, as avant-garde as it is elegant. As soon as you arrive, the tone is set by two magnificently preserved former grain silos that stand watch over the hotel's entrance. The grand spectacle continues inside with the 9th floor rooftop and its breathtaking view of the city, which can be admired while doing laps in the pool before enjoying a drink or tasting the exquisite cuisine of the Italian restaurant, Gina. The 149 rooms are just as spacious, with designer furnishings and 180° panoramic views of the city from the large bay windows.

Double rooms from €150 per night, breakfast included.

16, rue de la Gironde. T. 05 19 80 02 00.

Where to have lunch, dinner or a drink?

• The most "109", Sens

Alexandre Bru, the chef-owner, and Lauren, his pastry chef wife, appeal to the senses in this warm decor of deep blue and mustard yellow. While the lack of staff means they have to be on their toes, the atmosphere is all the more intimate and the experience all the more enjoyable. They were aptly selected in our latest issue of 109 - Le Sang neuf de la gastronomie française.

93, rue de Soissons. T. +33 (0) 9-83-45-52-29

Read the Gault&Millau review

• The craziest, Maison Nouvelle

Philippe Etchebest has put so much of himself into this crazy project he's been fighting for for five years! With his wife Dominique, they braved all the headwinds to open their Maison Nouvelle this year, which is simply the translation of its Basque name. On the lively Place des Chartrons, the chef has tastefully converted a former carpenter's workshop, arranging a number of objects and souvenirs to create a warm and personal setting. To reinforce this guest house feel, access is controlled by an entrance bell: the maître d' greets you and leads you to your table, on the 1st or 2nd floor. From there, let yourself be carried away by a 4-toque talent...

11, rue Rode. T. +33 (0) 5-33-09-46-90

Read the Gault&Millau review

• Capucins market

Bordeaux's oldest and largest market, and one of the friendliest. The best time to visit is early in the morning, when you can stroll past the hundred or so stalls of local bakers, market gardeners, butchers, fishmongers and oyster farmers. Late risers, however, will prefer to head for the large covered market around midday. Built with metal structures from the 1878 Paris Universal Exhibition, it also houses small stalls where you can feast on local produce - hams from Pata Negra, seafood platters from Jean-Mi, moules frites from Bistrot Poulette...

Tuesday to Sunday, 6am to 3pm.

5, place des Capucins. T. 05 56 92 26 29.

• Symbiosis

Bordelais love to meet up in this former Benedictine winery to savor the cuisine of Félix Clerc, but it's less well known that every evening the place is transformed into a speakeasy as confidential as it is warm (blond stone, oak woodwork and jazzy music) where you can savor the best cocktails, conceived by Félix Clerc.ne woodwork and jazzy music) where you can savour the finest cocktails, created in symbiosis with the products of the moment and the chef's menu. A must-taste is the Gilda with tomato gazpacho, verjuice and mezcal, or the Cachaça Parati with Archibald tonic and cucumber... So many original mixes that make Symbiose a cult venue for Bordeaux parties.

4, quai des Chartrons. T. 05 56 23 67 15.

Read the Gault&Millau review

Things to see, things to do...

• CAPC, museum of contemporary art

Inaugurated in 1973 in a former warehouse dedicated to colonial foodstuffs, the CAPC is one of France's pioneering venues for contemporary art. Thanks to the visionary spirit of its founder - art critic Jean-Louis Froment - the museum acquired works by young artists who have since become stars. The proof is in the prestigious collection held today by the CAPC. Works by Christian Boltanski, Richard Long, Keith Haring, Hervé Di Rosa and Robert Combas, photographs by Nan Goldin, sculptures by Annette Messager, furniture by Andrée Putman... all to be discovered in a huge cathedral-like hall.

7, rue Ferrère. T. 05 56 00 81 50.

• La Cité du vin

Come and admire the curvaceous architecture by XTU architects, inspired by the movement of wine in a decanter. Then it's on to the wealth of activities on offer, covering more than 3,000 m2 and twenty or so themes, with an ultra-modern audioguide that lets you design your own itinerary. The site invites visitors on a 360° discovery of the civilization of wine and the vine - its techniques, but also literature, cinema, photography... Don't miss the tasting at the bar-belvedere, with its exceptional view over the city and the Garonne.

134-150, quai de Bacalan. T. 06 56 16 20 20.

• Les boutiques des Chartrons

Backing onto the old town and close to the river, the Chartrons district was once the stronghold of English, German and Dutch merchants (the Hanse traders), who built mansions and warehouses here. Restored since the 1980s, they are now home to gallery owners, antique dealers and young designers. Our favorite stops? The PH7 boutique, with objects and furniture from the four corners of the globe (China, India, Bulgaria...). Coutume hardware store, with its mix of traditional Bordeaux items and small, eco-friendly brands. And finally, Pipat Antiquités, which has been furnishing Bordeaux's finest interiors for four generations.

Boutique PH7, 20, rue Notre-Dame.

Coutume, 79, rue Notre-Dame.

Pipat Antiquités, 64, rue Notre-Dame.

• Utopia arthouse cinema

Would you like to see a cult film again, watch a rare work that can't be found in the big cinemas or, quite simply, find yourself in a place that loves and celebrates the seventh art? Then head for Utopia! Housed in the former 16th-century Saint-Siméon church, this is much more than a cinema. The program is excellent, but people come here above all for the festivals (African, romance, film noir...), the previews, the evening debates and the conferences with the best directors. A rare venue, as intelligent as it is generous, with the added bonus of a small bar where you can sip a glass of wine and remake the world until late, very late, into the night.

5, place Camille-Jullian. T. 05 56 52 00 03.

An extra escape...

• Les Bassins des lumières

Nestled in a huge bunker built by the Germans in 1940 to house their submarines, the Bordeaux submarine base has undergone an incredible metamorphosis to become one of the world's most renowned digital art centers. Inaugurated in 2018, this venue invites visitors to take a unique stroll through works projected 360° above the four immense basins. A must-see is the "Infinite Horizons" exhibition and its imaginary landscapes that defy the laws of perspective (until January 7, 2024).

Impasse Brown-de-Colstoun. T. 05 35 0000 90.