Pyrenean cheese from Ariège: 8 good places to find it

There is indeed a "Tomme des Pyrénées" PGI cheese label, which authorizes both raw and pasteurized milk.In this selection, we have chosen to include only raw-milk cheeses made exclusively from cow's milk, whereas there are also Pyrenean cheeses made from ewe's milk.nean cheeses made from ewe's milk also exist, and the PGI authorizes both goat's milk (up to 100%) and blends of two of these three milks. These are raw-milk, pressed, uncooked cow's milk cheeses, just like classic mountain tommes.

The quality of a good Pyrenean cheese depends of course on the quality of the milk, its specificity in relation to its environment, and its taste personality. We have therefore deliberately chosen a limited geographical area, in this case the farms of Ariège, for our selection. It's worth noting the high overall quality of this tasting, since the scores for these eight cheeses (which we won't show) range from 12.5 to 15/20.

Four good Savoyard addresses

Ferme de Guilhem ❤

Hubert Steinmann has been based at Ferme de Guilhem since 2002, where he produces organic milk and cheeses. The herd of 14 Alpine Brown Swiss enjoy 45 hectares of meadows and pastures in complete forage autonomy at an altitude of 700 meters. Sales at the farm (visits by appointment only), at markets (Le Mas-d'Azil and Saint-Girons) and in local restaurants.

Tasting notes: A yellow paste with a beautiful artisanal aspect, a nose of character, milk and straw, harvest, cereal... A good mellowness, supple like a Saint-Nectaire, with chewiness. The taste is straightforward and flawless, with milk and rind in perfect harmony, hazelnut notes on the finish, and a well-managed maturing process.

• 19 €/kg
• Plaine de Rioubach
• 09290 Camarade

Les Vachers de Morère

Dutch-born Bert-Jan Bootsma acquired the farm in 2005. Set in the enchanting hills of the Volvestre ariégeois region, the farm, which is in the process of obtaining organic certification, comprises 20 well-tended cows and 65 ha of meadows, 40,000 liters of milk per year, part of which is transformed into yogurts, fromage blanc and tommes des Pyrénées (3.5 tons per year).

Tasting notes: Attractive, straightforward appearance, slightly dull rind but appetizing cheese, good dairy nose with hints of autumn fruit. Soft, with a slight nutty aroma, a little spicy on the finish, lacking a little taste power, but very pleasant in the mouth.

• 20 €/kg
• Morère, 09230 Cérizols

Ferme de la Hitte

Thomas Gallizia and Yann Berger have been working at Ferme de la Hitte since 2015, with 60 ha of organically farmed land, half mown, half grazed by their 22 cows, who feed on site (outside) in the summer months. The cheeses are sold at the farm, in the Biocoop network, in small and medium-sized local supermarkets and in local restaurants.

Tasting notes: A beautiful cut, with an artisanal, straightforward and shiny paste. The nose is pleasant, with amylic notes, farmhouse freshness, a little firm under the tongue. The paste, slightly sticky, reveals a good taste that evolves towards notes of Gruyère-style cooked paste, pleasant overall.

• 19.50 €/kg
• 09160 Lacav

Ferme du Carregaut

The farm has held the organic label since 2012, and its owners claim to be "organic and farmers from A to Z". There are three of them on the farm to look after the 22 cattle, brown by origin, firmly planted on the 48 ha of meadows and pastures. Fed on dried hay in winter, they make the most of the available grass the rest of the time. Tommes are sold on the farm.

Tasting notes: An appetizing, pale yellow, slightly moist paste. The nose is pleasant, the cheese well matured. The taste is balanced, lacking a little intensity, and would benefit from further development.

• 17 €/kg
• Le Carregaut
• 09420 Castelnau-Durban

Le Moulin Gourmand

The Moulin Gourmand is a family story. The grandfather, a farmer, took it over in 1978 and set up there to make his own cheeses. Today, following in the footsteps of Christian Gimbrède and his wife, two sons, Clément and Vincent, have taken over the small business, which now produces a wide range of artisan cheeses, including bethmale, ravioles, brousses and millas au chaudron. On-site sales and tours.

Tasting notes: A slightly marbled effect, without homogeneity, for a beautiful artisanal appearance, a pretty pinkish rind. The nose is clean and healthy, with grass and milk showing good balance. The chew is unctuous, of good length, with good moisture, a frank taste of farm milk, slightly lacking in ripeness, for the mild cheese.

• 21.70€/kg (14.90€/kg direct sale).
• Rue du Moulin, 09800 Engomer
• www.moulin-gourmand.fr

Ferme du Pesquié

The cross, the book and the plough are the objects that regulate the lives of the site's fifty or so nuns. Working the land and running the farm keep them busy, in particular maintaining the 40 ha of meadows where around twenty cows graze. Cheeses are sold on site, as well as pastries, jams and cheeses.

Tasting notes: A fresh, dairy tomme, with a pleasant, concentrated nose of fresh milk and cream, hay and straw. The paste is tender, a little soft, as if slightly lacking in ripening. The palate is also that of a fresh, pleasant tomme, with little aromatic persistence.

• 18.90 €/kg
• Abbaye Notre Dame du Pesquié
• Le Pesquié, 0900 Serres-sur-Arget

Le Moulis

Matured on a wooden board, this Pyrenean cow's milk cheese, with its beautiful brown color, has played an almost ancestral role in the farm's production since 1934. Selected and brushed by hand, the cheeses are made from cow's milk, but also from goat's milk, some of which is organic. In ten years, they have won 11 medals at the Concours Général Agricole.

Tasting notes: Pleasing appearance, pale, fresh color, good dairy nose with springtime and stable notes. On the palate, the paste is a little sticky, but the texture remains supple and soft, and the rind pleasant. A healthy cheese with a good, balanced farmhouse taste.

• 22.90 €/kg
• 1, rue Principale, lieu-dit Luzenac
• 09200 Moulis
• www.le-moulis.com

La Ferme du Plateau

The preparation of cheeses falls within the framework of the Rule of Saint Benedict, to which the monks have made a profession of faith. Manual labor plays an important role in this process, outside of church hours. Each year, 80,000 liters of milk are processed on site. Visits are rare, and the cheeses are sold in the surrounding area.

Tasting notes: Pale yellow in color, with few cells and a frank appearance, this cheese has a discreet, dairy, nutty and floral nose. The dough melts in the mouth, the slightly soapy flavor turning slightly pungent on the finish, while retaining a pleasant artisanal, farmhouse tone.

• Price not given
• Abbaye Notre-Dame de Donezan
• 09460 Carcanières