The croissant, tasting at the Atelier du Goût

The only (almost) certainty is that they were found in the heart of Paris in the middle of the 19th century in the aptly named Boulangerie viennoise. as it was made with brioche dough (as in Austria, the famous kipferls). So it was in France - some believe under the influence of the first chef, "the king of chefs and the chef of kings", Marie-Antoine Carême - that it took on all its crispness. We keep getting lost between legends and certainties. Another certainty? The croissant appeared in the Littré in 1863, in the Larousse in 1869, and in the Larousse gastronomique in 1938. Finally, the first person to give a recipe for today's croissant was Sylvain Claudius Goy, in 1915, in his book La Cuisine anglo-américaine.

The final certainty is that this Viennese pastry (we'll come back to this) is far more technical than it might seem. Well risen, well puffed and well aerated (when cut, the cells are clear), crisp on the surface and soft inside, with a supple dough, well buttered but not too much (a good croissant doesn't leave your fingers greasy or oozing), it's balanced in sugar, revealing its deliciousness through the quality of the ingredients and the quality of the making. It certainly deserved a test bench.

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Frappe ❤

This is the new bakery deal behind the Bastille. In the discreet rue Sedaine - goodness knows no lies - Solenn Le Squer, daughter of Christian, 5 toques at Le Cinq, has set up shop with Thomas Padovani, a talented pastry chef trained at Ducasse and Kayser. The display is more than appetizing, with exciting speciality breads (petit épeautre, tourte), an original and tasty savoury offer and, of course, a well-stocked pastry department.

Tasting notes: A genuine croissant from a palace pastry chef, beautiful and tasty. The very type of regular croissant, very well made, golden-brown, with a nice cut on clean cells. The work is very meticulous. A good cereal nose emerges.

• Price: 1.30 euros
• 7, rue Sedaine, 75011 Paris
• www.frappeboulangerie.fr

Aki Boulangerie

Well established on a street corner, Aki's bakery is always busy. The bread, Viennese pastries, Japanese specialties and small terrace at the entrance justify the crowds. Sandwiches and salads prepared for lunch are served inside as well as outside, at counters along the window facing passers-by. Japanese chocolates and pastries are also available for a French-Asian clientele of tourists and regulars.

Tasting notes: A slightly puny croissant, but fresh out of the oven, with regular flakiness and a slightly yeasty nose. A simple, pleasant taste, a conscientious baker's croissant, with a good fat-sugar balance.

• Price: 1.40 euros
• 16, rue Sainte-Anne, 75001 Paris
• www.akip aris.fr

Cédric Grolet

Cédric Grolet, assisted by Yohann Caron, sets the pace with his first bakery-pastry shop, Fleurs, which provides the inspiration for most of his creations. Quantities are limited to production capacity, and opening hours are restricted to 9.30 a.m. - 6 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday. As for the rest, you'll have to be patient, because when they run out...

Tasting notes: Well-made, with a slight asymmetry and a well-risen, airy puff pastry. Very well-balanced in flavor, the buttery texture is not too fatty. Made with quality ingredients, the result is of a very high standard.

• Price: 4 euros
• 35, avenue de l'Opéra, 75002 Paris
• www.cedric-grolet.com

Maison d'Isabelle

Isabelle Leday, originally from the Perche region of France, specializes in ice cream, but she doesn't neglect her breads and viennoiseries, which she prepares as carefully as she selects the ingredients (organic, French) to meet the most exacting standards. The decision to keep costs down for both baguettes and croissants is a commendable move.

Tasting notes: Shiny appearance, volume, crispness, a well-made croissant with a buttery, slightly farmhouse, artisanal nose that seems to have just come out of the oven. Luscious in the mouth, like the viennoiserie of yesteryear, it is as pleasant as fresh bread. Its rich, fragrant paste melts in the mouth.

• Price: 1.20 euros
• 47ter, boulevard Saint-Germain, 75005 Paris

Pâtisserie du Panthéon

A very pretty patisserie on the Panthéon side, with its old-fashioned lettering and decoration, evocative of a postcard Paris. Sébastien Dégardin makes elegant versions of classic pastries, including raspberry tart, saint-honoré, paris-brest and millefeuille. Good savory range too.

Tasting notes: Attractive, shiny golden appearance, powerful buttery yeasty nose. Supple on the palate, the puff pastry holds up well, the taste is marked by butter, a touch greasy, but reveals a good delicacy.

• Price: €1.50
• 200, rue Saint-Jacques, 75005 Paris
• www.sebastien-degardin.com

Pâtisserie Liberté

A neighborhood bakery, well-stocked and well-stocked, where regulars come at all hours, for bread, pastries and cakes for afternoon tea or Sunday lunch... in complete freedom! Quality speciality breads, bagels and sandwiches for lunch. Several locations in Paris.

Tasting notes: A city croissant, well made, very regular, with tight ridges and regular cells. A good, straightforward buttery nose. Not very crunchy, a little sweet, but meltingly soft.

• Price: 1.40 euros
• 39, rue des Vinaigriers, 75010 Paris
• www.liberte-paris.com

Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Carton

Founded in 1956 and rebranded in 1976, Martine and Jean-Pierre Carton's Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Carton has become a fixture on chic Parisian streets. Awarded the title of Best Butter Croissant Paris 2022, the bakery also offers filled croissants (apricot, salted butter caramel, raspberry...). With a golden baguette and the iconic Nordique, the family tradition is complete.

Tasting notes: A beautiful visual of the "modern" croissant, well puffed up, shiny golden, with very regular, tight striations. Homogeneous texture, perfect baking, professional workmanship. The nose is harmonious, with a hint of frangipane, and the taste balanced.

• Price: 1.30 euros
• 6, boulevard de Denain, 75010 Paris
• www.cartonparis.com

Farine&O

The 2015 MOF boulanger Olivier Magne, assisted by Florian Argoud (ex-banker), runs a boutique in keeping with his preparations. Faithful to the traditional values of making good bread with good products, where long fermentation and natural leavening are the order of the day for a quality range. Flaky, fragrant Viennoiseries, pastries adapted to the seasons and ideas of the moment.

Tasting notes: The croissant is appetizing, with an artisanal, slightly irregular appearance. The nose is balanced between butter and sugar, though slightly dry on the palate. The taste is typical, with good chewiness and a pleasant crunch, perfect for a morning snack.

• Price: 1.20 euros
• 10, rue des Martyrs, 75010 Paris

Tholoniat

Nestled in the midst of Afro hairdressers' stores, the house still has many delicacies to reveal. The bakery-viennoiserie section is modest in its choice, but confident in the quality of its products. The pastries are successful, and the home-made chocolates, sold either in bars or broken, are a real treat for gourmets. Kévin Bézier has worked in some of Paris's top restaurants, and it shows.

Tasting notes: Quite attractive, if a little dull on the surface, this is a typical Parisian croissant, nicely cut and clean. A lovely nose of yeast and butter, soft in the mouth, it offers a good butter-sugar balance and a tender dough that leaves a freshness.

• Price: 1.30 euros
• 47, rue du Château-d'Eau, 75010 Paris
• www.patisserietholoniat.paris

Utopie

A popular bakery at lunchtime, for its excellent sandwiches and generous salads and quiches. Authentic" by the slice, charcoal baguette, buckwheat or walnut bread are also available.

Tasting notes: Dense and well risen, fresh and pleasant to the nose, the croissant could have done with a little extra baking. It remains soft on the palate, well-made and typical.

• Price: 1.20 euros
• 20 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011 Paris
• www.boulangerieutopie.com

Des Gâteaux et du Pain

Claire Damon, former assistant to Christophe Michalak at the Plaza, has teamed up with David Granger, an experienced baker. In a decor designed by Yan Pennor's, the duo distill beautiful products. Using natural yeast for the bakery and seasonal fruit for the pastry chef, the tandem is a great success.

Tasting notes: A lovely, steady exercise in style. Golden, this croissant de pâtissier has a pleasant, fresh, buttery nose, revealing a supple texture with good volume. The dough is well aerated, evenly leavened and well balanced. A fine confection.

• Price: €1.80
• 63, boulevard Pasteur, 75015 Paris
• www.desgateauxetdupain.com

La Pâtisserie Cyril Lignac

Five bakeries and a chocolate factory in Paris. Cyril Lignac is multiplying his addresses, and we appreciate the gesture. Each of his bakeries and patisseries, always in the purest style, retains the touch of the chef-turned-businessman. Breads and viennoiseries are made on site, to guarantee the highest quality. The 15th arrondissement boutique is no exception.

Tasting notes: Slightly baked, with an appealingly shiny dark brown color, the rather dense dough has a good chewiness and reveals a little fat. The croissant is pleasantly crisp and tasty.

• Price: 1.90 euros
• 55 boulevard Pasteur, 75015 Paris
• www.cyrillignac.com

Boulangerie Baptiste

Owner Joël Defives has no reason to be ashamed of his CV. An award-winning MOF by trade, he is a former advisor to Thierry Marx. His pretty, angled boutique showcases his creations, including "Baptiste", named after his son and made from roasted malted wheat flour. You'll also find special breads made with sourdough, rye flour, fig, apricot and cranberry, corn bread and walnut bread. Pastries are also recommended.

Tasting notes: A plump, golden croissant with regular dimples. Supple, it has a clean, slightly fermented taste, melting and pleasant on the palate, with a buttery finish.

• Price: 1.30 euros
• 17, rue des Moines, 75017 Paris
• www.boulangeriebaptiste.fr

Leonie

A strategy that pays off for this elegant bakery with its choice of 100% organic ingredients. Natural sourdough adds a touch of authenticity to a range of breads that reflect the spirit of artisan craftsmanship and short supply chains. You'll find special breads, with buckwheat, rye or even pumpkin seeds, as well as pastries and a grocery corner.

Tasting notes: A typical croissant, with all the freshness and melt-in-the-mouth goodness you'd expect. The nose is very pleasant, with hints of cereal, harvest, good quality butter, a well-worked, soft product, with choice ingredients.

• Price: €1.40
• 96, rue de Lévis, 75017 Paris
• www.leoniebakery.com

Chez Meunier

Nine addresses in Paris and two in the Île-de-France region, for this chain of organic bakeries offering consistent quality and modern design in layout and presentation. Particular attention is paid to bread, Viennese pastries and cakes, with a limited but tasteful selection in small and large formats. Sandwiches and wraps for lunch.

Tasting notes: Good, clean, buttery nose, pleasant, slightly irregular but appetizing appearance, slightly lacking in aeration, fairly dense, but with a good crispness and pleasant taste.

• Price: 1.40 euros
• 185, rue de Crimée, 75019 Paris
• www.chezmeunier.com