Lallier's hymn to French gastronomic genius
To mark the release of its new opus "R.020", Lallier Champagne is showcasing its singularity and creativity. Find out more.
2023 is a special year for Lallier. The brand is celebrating not its year of birth, but the tenth iteration of its "Réflexion" collection, the "R.020", which is by no means the umpteenth repetition of the classic cuvée. Because, unlike other champagne houses with their brut sans année (BSA), Lallier is not looking for a consistent taste. This range is a contemporary approach to our wine," emphasizes Dominique Demarville, our cellar master. While keeping our fundamentals, namely a balanced style, we seek to be as faithful as possible to the individual character of the harvest." Composed of 81% grapes harvested in 2020, "R.020"is a tribute to this exceptional year (see interview opposite). To make it even more special, this blend spent thirty months gestation in cool, damp cellars. Time being the last fundamental and irreplaceable element of craftsmanship!
To further highlight the inventive, artisanal philosophy of this cuvée, Lallier Champagne decided to collaborate with three Meilleurs ouvriers de France: Yann Brys, MOF Pâtisserie 2011, Thomas Subrin, MOF Boulangerie 2018 and Laëtitia Gaborit, MOF Fromagerie 2007. Working alongside Dominique Demarville, the three MOFs have respectively created a pastry, a puff pastry brioche and a cheese creation that go beautifully with "R.020" champagne.
Three questions for Dominique Demarville, Cellar Master and General Manager of Champagne Lallier
How did you go about bringing out this new cuvée?
Dominique Demarville: When I arrived at Lallier at the end of January 2021, I discovered the world of "Réflexion". This blend is based on the perfect balance of the four pillars of the house style: purity, freshness, intensity and depth. "Réflexion" also reflects the sensation of the year that dominates the blend. I really like this approach, which blends the savoir-faire of a non-vintage cuvée with the personality of a single-year cuvée. For myfirst blend at Lallier, I began by building the cuvée with wines from the 2020 harvest. A year dominated by a very sunny climate, with beautiful purity. Chardonnay, a particularly successfulgrape variety , dominates very slightly in the "R.020" blend (51%). Then I introduced reserve wines from 2019 for their depth and from 2018, for their intensity.
How is this new iteration different from the previous one from an organoleptic point of view?
D. D.: 2020 has brought great aromatic purity, with notes of white flowers and fresh citrus. These notes are supported by a beautiful tension on the palate. For the first time since the first iteration ("R.010"), Chardonnay dominates. It brings elegance and purity. Balance is achieved thanks to Pinot Noir (49%), which brings density and power. The brioche and slightly toasted notes come from the 2018 and 2019 reserve wines, as well as from wines vinified in barrels, to enrich the organoleptic sensations.
Is it true to say that champagne-making is a craft like any other food business?
D. D. : Yes, every step in the production process must be precise, adjusted to the conditions of the year.Every detail counts, just as in the creation of a dish, from the choice of raw materials to the final touch. The blend of creativity and know-how makes for an excellent final product. Our job as champagne makers is therefore based on the same criteria as those of craftsmen: the precision of the gesture and the intuition of the creation. And to this we must add a dose of patience for the ageing time of our cuvées, which must mature in the cellar long enough to reach their peak.
Gault&Millau's verdict: 91/100*
Finesse, freshness and roundness sum up this easily accessible champagne, which should convince even the most reluctant. The long, fresh finish gives way to a gentle salivation that encourages you to put your lips back on the glass.
*Comments and scores produced for the Livre des champagnes 2024. Blind tasting at Gault&Millau's Atelier du Goût.
