Don Juan II, love at first sight on the Seine

Publirédactionnel | 6/6/24, 12:10 PM

The Paris river has become a stage for a magnificent gastronomic sequence orchestrated by 5-toque chef Frédéric Anton. All aboard the flagship of the Yachts de Paris.

It's 8:30 pm. The Don Juan II pulls away from the Port Debilly quay. It's time for a meeting, a moment suspended in time as Paris's most beautiful monuments float by on the Seine. It's also time for a tête-à-tête with the talent of Frédéric Anton. The 5-toque chef from Le Pré Catelan accepted the challenge of imagining a gastronomic offering on board what was once a freight barge, now completely revamped. The ambition is equal to the constraints imposed by service on water. Like a corps de ballet, whose luminous smile says nothing of the hours of training required to ensure the precision of their movements, the wait staff bring that extra touch of soul that makes a table great. The brigade - trained by the chef and headed by Gabin Bordelais - executes a prestigious menu in a small kitchen. Maîtres d'hôtel and sommeliers bring that extra touch of soul that makes a table great.

A limited space with all the equipment and layout needed to create an exceptional menu on the spot. The technique of Joël Robuchon's former disciple is at the service of strong tastes and delicious contrasts. The glistening Iron Lady is as much a feast for the eyes as the langoustine, worked into a raviole and concealed beneath a fine gold-leaf jelly. An enchanted interlude served in an intimate setting sculpted by Pierre Frey fabrics and in an Art Deco ambiance, Frédéric Anton proves that the Seine can set the scene for a cuisine as meticulous as the running time of this dinner-cruise reserved for the evening's twelve tables. At 10:45 p.m., a last drink on the quay to admire the Eiffel Tower... Time to come back down to earth.

5 questions to Frédéric Anton, chef at Pré Catelan (19/20, 5 toques G&M) and Jules Verne (16/20, 3 toques G&M)

Gault&Millau: Why did you agree to sign up for the Don Juan II gastronomic offer?

Frédéric Anton: I could have said no if the location hadn't inspired me. In my opinion, the Seine is the most beautiful avenue in Paris. What's more, the project concerns an all-wooden boat on a human scale. It's not a yacht like the others. I imposed two conditions before embarking on the project: to have carte blanche with regard to the gastronomic experience, and to have a fully equipped galley.

Was this limited space a constraint in the implementation of your project?

F. A. : I wanted to have a real kitchen, like in any restaurant. So I drew up the plans starting from an empty room. Just because it's a boat doesn't mean I had to imagine things differently, by prohibiting this or that. So there are no constraints. It's all a question of organization and reflection.

Like a common thread running through your three Parisian addresses, you even manage to serve your signature dishes. Was this essential to establish Don Juan II as a restaurant in its own right?

F. A. : Gastronomic cuisine can't be invented in a thousand ways. Even when you open a new culinary concept, you don't change your cuisine from top to bottom. It's essential to serve what you know how to do. Of course, I had to think about how to differentiate myself from Le Pré Catelan and Le Jules Verne. For example, should a sauce be changed? These are three atypical places offering different gastronomic adventures and totally distinct atmospheres.

As they dine on the water, customers see the most beautiful Parisian monuments pass by. How do you manage to draw customers' attention to the contents of their plates?

F. A. : It's all about quality cuisine. We try to prepare dishes that appeal. The key is never to forget that the intention is that of a restaurant. Logically, customers come first to eat. The view complements what's on the plate. The aim of a gastronomic project is not to impress with a dish, but to seduce with the experience and make people want to come back.

Can customers expect to bump into you during dinner?

F. A. : There are different ways of going about it: sometimes, I do the whole cruise. I'm with Gabin Bordelais, the executive chef, from 6 p.m. onwards. Otherwise, I greet guests as they arrive before the boat departs, or on their return, when they're enjoying their last moments on deck.