It's time... for apricots

Originally from Asia, where it is thought to have been introduced 4,000 years ago, apricots are now widely grown in France, the second largest producer in Europe after Italy and ahead of Spain. It is mainly grown in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes and Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur regions, and production is estimated at around 130,000 tonnes this year (source: Ministry of Agriculture, Agreste).

There are 21 varieties, including the red apricot from Roussillon, which has had a PDO since 2016. its small "freckles" and pronounced fragrance, and the Bergeron apricot, which is larger, juicier, sweeter and more tart.

To choose one, we rely not on its color, but on its fragrance. They should be firm and juicy, not mealy. When ripe, they can be stored in a cool place for just a few days. To extend the fruit's shelf-life, it's best to freeze it after removing the stone. Very rich in water, it provides just 45 kcal per 100 g and is a good source of fiber, beta-carotene, vitamin C and potassium. In dried form, it provides plenty of energy.

Fruit is never better than when it's in season. That's why we buy them from June to August. In the kitchen, apricots go well with vanilla, elderflower and lavender, as well as caramel and herbs such as thyme, rosemary and basil.

Here are a few tips before you start cooking.

• Apricots become juicy when cooked. The best way to do this is to add almond powder to the tart base or, better still, bake the tart blank before adding fresh apricots.

• With or without the skin? It all depends on the use. If you're pocketing the fruit to preserve its melt-in-the-mouth texture, it's best to remove the skin. On the other hand, when making compotes, it's best to keep the skin on.

• To remove the skin, the method is the same as for tomatoes. Simply immerse the apricots in boiling water for 30 seconds, a useful tip for jams.

• For gazpacho, mix fresh apricots with lemon, honey and thyme. Serve chilled with diced toasted brioche.

• With less ripe apricots, use the crumble version. Pan-fry the fruit with a vanilla pod, cover with crumble batter and bake in the oven.

• For savoury dishes, we prefer less ripe fruit to retain a little acidity, or dried apricots, which are sweeter, depending on the desired taste.

• Inspired by Japanese umeboshi, we prepare a salted and dried version, or a chutney to accompany poultry.

From pastry chef to chocolatier, variations on apricots!

• François Perret's apricot barquette, Ritz Paris Le Comptoir, Paris

To celebrate Le Comptoir's first anniversary, François Perret created a collection of fruit trays, including a tasty apricot version. Like an inverted crumble, a crunchy pastry with sugared almonds and almonds supports a whipped cream and a heart of apricot compote. "The apricots come from the Tarn-et-Garonne region. I always choose them when they are fully ripe, for their fragrance and texture. The fruit then stands on its own in a dessert."Enjoy this apricot barquette, a promise of a return to childhood.

38, rue Cambon, 75001 Paris.

www.ritz parislecomptoir.com

• Nicolas Paciello's apricot combawa tart, Paris

Nicolas Paciello interprets all the facets of the apricot in an enchanting summer tart. Fresh, in compote, in veil, the fruit reveals its fragrances skilfully seasoned with a touch of combawa. "I chose to play with contrasting textures. On a thin sweet pastry, I lay an almond cream enriched with pieces of ripe apricot, then an apricot compote flavored with combawa. After baking, I add fresh fruit or fruit lightly pre-flavored with honey. The tarts come as they go, depending on what's available".

Cinq Sens, 114, rue Saint-Charles, 75015 Paris.

www.cinq sensparis.com

• Angelo Musa's apricot almond milk jam, Papilio

Every weekend back in Nancy, Angelo Musa, MOF 2007, starts making his own jams. After a trip to the market, he peels, pits and then cooks the fruit in a huge copper vat. With a fruit content of over 60%, his jams are a must. "When it comes to apricots, I don't have a favorite variety. I choose them by their appearance and fragrance. I like to combine them with almond milk, whose unique, sweet notes blend perfectly with the apricot flavors. At the end of the cooking process, I add whole almonds to give it extra texture." It's perfect for spreading on toast for breakfast.

www.ange lomusa.com

• Apricot, almond and amaretto sorbet, by Jérémie Runel, Paris

In Ardèche, you don't have to go far to find juicy, fragrant apricots. Jérémie Runel has chosen to pay homage to Provence by imagining the "sorbet tordant" apricot almond, with roasted almond slivers and amaretto. "I like the idea of adding a touch of amaretto to recapture that little taste of kernels. I often combine this sorbet with an almond clafoutis, a scoop of almond paste ice cream from Provence and poached apricots to make a gourmet summer cup." Enjoy alone or share!

La Fabrique Givrée, 26, rue Soufflot, 75005 Paris.

www.lafa briquegivrée.com

• Apricot and elderflower viennoiserie from Utopie, Paris

Erwan, Sébastien and Willy specialize in creating ephemeral weekend creations. With the arrival of the first apricots, the emblematic Oranais croissant takes on a Parisian air. "We made a croissant dough on sourdough, which we bake with an elderflower cream. The auricles are baked separately in the oven, then placed, still warm, on the dough before sipping them with an elderflower syrup." We're off to discover this ultra-gourmet bakery creation.

20, rue Jean-Baptiste Timbaud, 75011 Paris.

www.boul angerieutopie.com

• Apricot and chocolate from Jean-Paul Hévin, Paris

Dried fruit coated in chocolate, pure indulgence! "I've always loved combining the slight acidity of apricots with chocolate, including for mendiants. I choose soft dried apricots, whose variety changes with the season. I then coat them with our 68% cocoa homemade chocolate blend. These coated apricots are among the emblematic creations I've been making for at least twenty-five years."You won't want to miss out on these mouth-watering delicacies, available by weight or in assorted boxes.

23 bis, avenue de la Motte-Picquet, 75007 Paris.

www.jean paulhevin.com