5 places where butter is a story

In the restaurant world, certain traditions remain unchanged, such as the presentation of bread at the start of the meal, accompanied by butter or olive oil, depending on the region. However, in larger establishments where locavorism is gaining in popularity, the traditional clot of butter under a bell appears obsolete. Today, butter is almost a dish in its own right, serving to anchor a menu in a specific region and era, while telling the unique story of the chef who created it. Gault&Millau unveils the names of five restaurants to discover butters worked like no other.

Ursus, in Tignes

At Ursus (3 toques) in Tignes, Clément Bouvier's cuisine is an ode to gourmet pleasure. The proof: as soon as they enter, guests discover a large wooden table on which are laid out three huge lumps of butter, each weighing 5 kg, straight from the Bourg-Saint-Maurice cooperative. "We've been doing this since the restaurant opened. These are clumps of soft butter that we then work on in the restaurant. When the customers arrive, we make them three quenelles that we flavour at the last moment with fleur de sel, Savoyard peasant bacon, wild thyme or lovage, which we dry on the premises", describes Clément Bouvier. "Seeing so much butter can be surprising. But customers love it, especially foreigners," he laughs. "Thanks to this, we're able to set the tone straight away. Soon, this butter will even be spread on bread made by Clément Bouvier's teams. "We've just bought a bakery in Tignes, which we'll be opening in autumn 2024. I'm passionate about bread and this will perfectly complement the restaurant experience."

• Where? Ursus, 39 rue du Val Claret, 73320 Tignes
• www.les-suites-du-nevada.com/restaurant-ursus

© A. Battut - Agence Camille Carlier

Villa Gallici, Aix-en-Provence

At La Villa Gallici (1 toque) in Aix-en-Provence, chef Christophe Gavot has also set himself apart by offering an olive oil butter, using a different method to Änga. "For a number of years now, we've been aspiring to develop our culinary offering in our restaurant at Villa Gallici, the Taula Gallici, by accentuating our Provence roots and, on behalf of our owners, our affection for Italy. That's why butter is one of the first products to be put on the table. We've created an olive oil butter made with 50% farm butter and 50% Italian extra-virgin olive oil", says the chef. Depending on the season, this butter can be flavored in different ways: Pantelleria capers and Mediterranean anchovies, fried and dried Senise peppers, summer truffles or even Pistou Genovese.

• Where to eat? Villa Gallici, 18 avenue de la Violette, 13100 Aix-en-Provence
• www.villagallici.com

Substance, Paris

At Substance (3 toques) in Paris, Matthias Marc never forgets to recall his Franc-Comtois origins. And while ingredients from his native region make their way onto the plates, butter is no exception. "I work with Fromagerie de Passavant, which produces Comté cheese. We use the whey from the Comté to make our butter. The great thing is that our butter complies with the same specifications as Comté, with cows fed on grass and local flowers. This gives us top quality ingredients and a very yellow butter! But that's not all. Matthias Marc and his team push the envelope even further, flavoring the butter with juniper berries and Menton lemon zest, to recall the flavors of a gin and tonic. " We mix everything together and leave it to rest in a cool place for 48 hours, so that the fat can absorb the flavors," he explains. The butter is then served at just the right temperature, "between cold and ointment", and accompanies the meal at Substance all year round.

• Where to find us Substance, 18 rue de Chaillot, 75116 Paris
• www.substance.paris

Änga, Montpellier

At Änga (2 toques), in Montpellier, Cyril Garcia takes a two-pronged approach. Just before dessert, the chef and his team suggest that customers accompany the cheese of the month with a flavored butter made on site. "My partner and sommelier loves this pairing, which adds sweetness to certain goat's cheeses, for example. Over time, I've also developed this habit. It can be with citrus, herbs, pepper... It really depends on the season and the mood," explains Cyril Garcia. Throughout the meal, guests can also discover an "olive oil butter" served with homemade bread. "There are a lot of olive oil producers around us, and we've made a congealed oil that can be spread like butter and flavored too. This allows us to stand out, while remaining locavore", he enthuses.

• Where to buy? Änga, 10 rue Saint-Firmin, 34000 Montpellier
• www.anga-restaurant.fr

Perception, Paris

The Perception restaurant in Paris has made a specialty of working with butter in original ways. This may seem a surprising choice when you consider that chef Sukwon Yong, who heads up this gastronomic table, is originally from Korea, a country where butter is not part of the eating habits. However, Perception is a traditional French restaurant with an Asian twist. Butter is therefore an indispensable element, which the chef evolves by adding a touch of originality to surprise customers. Sukwon Yong plays with the semi-salted butter he brings directly from Brittany, and flavors it differently every day according to his desires and the products available. Nori seaweed, Espelette pepper, black garlic, black lemon, sesame, yuzu or wild garlic are used to create a different butter every two or three days, as if it were a dish. All condiments are homemade, especially the black garlic, which is cooked in a rice cooker and spreads a tantalizing aroma throughout the restaurant. "The regulars are happy to have a different proposal every time. Some even take some away for their families," laughs Sukwon Yong.

• Where to eat? Perception, 53 rue Blanche, 75009 Paris
• www.restaurant-perception.com