Substance

Rating: 15.5
Author: Gault&Millau

75016 PARIS

15.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

12 PHOTOS

Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine
Style: Elegant | Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

68 to 188

Gault&Millau's review 2026

In this district of embassies, the Jura can count on a representation to match. Matthias Marc's cuisine is certainly not regionalized or codified. No, if he sometimes draws inspiration from certain traditions, it's by transposing and transfiguring them with modernity without detracting from authenticity. Some emblematic products also punctuate a menu that we never tire of. For example, this dish, which sums up the chef's attachment to his native region, combines Morteau sausage, a chicken sauce with yellow wine, a well-reduced poultry jus and gnocchi topped with a veil of Comté cheese. And the trout? It's slowly smoked, then adorned with delicate exotic notes (pineapple, Buddha's hand, passion fruit...) as well as coriander, mustard seeds... making it even more delicious. All of these components work together like clockwork... in the Jura region. On the seafood side, red mullet (cooked on one side, then breaded) is featured in a very pretty composition with a dominant red color that combines the freshness of grapefruit with the warmth of soubressade. Carrots, pickled celery potatoes, pickled shallots and a hint of red wine complete this complex but brilliant dish. Why not then indulge in the superb pigeon, whose skin is peeled off to slip in a very fine stuffing of giblets and grapes. The sauce, in the spirit of "sauce charcutière", has just the right amount of character, between rusticity and elegance. To conclude, a light puff pastry highlights apples from the family orchard, with pommeau and Cambodian pepper. A delightful array of dishes served in an attractive, comfortable setting with a warm ambience. The plates are prepared directly at the table, ensuring a perfect osmosis between the kitchen team and the natural, attentive wait staff. To make sure you don't feel out of place, the very fine cellar honors the wines of the Jura region, with the finest estates: Anne et JF Ganevat, François Rousset-Martin, Guillaume Overnoy, Jean Macle, Valentin Morel... Elsewhere, the selection is just as sharp, with Jacques Lassaigne's Coteaux Champenois or an Alsace La Rogerie, Schneid Riesling... Editor's note: After seven years at the helm of the restaurant, the chef has decided to turn over a new leaf. From 2026, he will devote himself to a new personal project, to be carried out with his wife and business partner Hanna Marc. Scheduled to open in summer 2026, the new restaurant will be located in the Doubs region, in the chef's native land.