Substance

75116 PARIS

15/20
Remarkable Restaurant

12 PHOTOS

Chef Matthias Marc

Cooking French | Gastronomic | specialty

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

55€ à 180€

Gault&Millau's review

15/20

Remarkable Restaurant In the highly residential Chaillot district, between lawyers' offices and beautiful apartments, Substance is a fashionable stopover that's delighted a generation. Matthias Marc, the emblematic chef of the Manigold group, has the beneficial soul of an innkeeper, with a laughing eye and an affable welcome, always ready to pull out a bottle from behind the faggots to put his guests at ease. But when it comes to service, he's at the forefront, and never takes his eyes off a plate. The young front-of-house team tactfully takes over, taking care of each and every guest, depending on the situation, with a coolness that can also be tiring when you consider the bill. In essence, the cuisine is inventive, generous, and sometimes a little heavy on spatula effects and allusions to the terroir explained to Parisians. It's a journey as close as possible to the products of the Jura, from cancoillotte to Morteau sausage, from comté to vin jaune. But between these well-established landmarks, the chef seduces the audience with contemporary, subtle and well-balanced dishes. Poached oysters with ginger and dill ravioli, or scallops wrapped in butternut and mandarin spaghetti with an XO sauce as mysterious as it is magical, will take you away. As for desserts, young pastry chef Camille Pelé takes the train with ease: the circle of fresh kiwi meringue and lime, granny smith apple and Jurassian gel brings astringency and acidity, useful at this time, as does the candied quince, melilot mousse ice cream with quince juice and yellow wine, verjuice gel. In the cellar, Anatole Bouyeure is at the helm of a fine selection of wines, including some Jura rarities. The restaurant was given a new look during the summer of 2024.

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