We really weren’t too worried about Substance’s future after Mathias Marc left. In fact, the duo discovered by Stéphane Manigold—Flavio Lucarini and Aurora Storari—is already well established, and the restaurant’s loyal clientele has continued, as always, to make it their gourmet destination. Now, diners find on their plates influences that are more Italian than Jura-inspired, along with lovely seasonal touches, such as zucchini and mussels in escabèche with fig oil and Amalfi lemon, and roasted duck with glazed eggplant, lovage butter, and medlars, Aurora, the pastry chef, takes over with a refreshing dessert of rhubarb, olive oil-infused ice juice, oat cream, and a shiso-coconut emulsion. A lunch menu is priced at 98 €, a seven-course dinner at 158 €, and the wine cellar is well-curated and interesting.