48 hours in Quimper

Brittany/2022

There are certain towns that mark the end of a journey. The historic capital of Finistère, with its rich cultural past, Quimper invites you to take a long break and savor the charms of a Brittany apart, that of Cornouaille.

Crossed by the Odet, a coastal river that flows down from the Black Mountains into the ocean near Bénodet, and the Steïr, one of its tributaries, Quimper bewitches the traveler. From quay to quay, you'll discover an astonishing town where traces of a legendary and pious past follow one another. Place au Beurre, rue du Sallé, rue Kéréon, pont Médard, rue Saint-Mathieu, rue Laennec... Zigzagging, sometimes getting lost, gives you time to admire the half-timbered and corbelled houses, or Saint-Corentin cathedral, with its fine, robust lines, typical of Breton Gothic art. After a break on the terrace of the popular Café du Finistère, it's time for a bit of culture at the Musée départemental breton, home to some marvels for those interested in vernacular arts. Unless you'd prefer to discover the real jewel, the city's emblem. On the left bank, downstream, the Locmaria district: an abbey and the Musée de la faïence. Since the 17th century, Quimper has been a renowned centre for this craft. Today, only the Maison Henriot and its bowls for tourists remain, but Quimper's earthenware industry has had its heyday. Mathurin Méheut, René-Yves Creston (one of the little-known members of the Seiz Breur movement), René Quillivic, Pierre Toulhoat... some of the greatest artists have worked with the Grande Maison de la Hubaudière, Porquier, Keraluc or Fouillen earthenware factories. For a long time, Quimper was a Rouen, but by the end of the 19th century, its craftsmen had invented a style that has since been widely copied. There was a time when the neighborhood buzzed with the conversations, in Breton of course, of the painters who decorated everyday objects or monumental pieces exclusively by hand. Then the magic was gone, with takeovers, betrayals and turf battles... But the memory remains. The proof is in this dedicated museum. Nearby, the Locmaria garden offers a pleasant green stroll along the Odet. And why not head back downstream, to discover another country, that of Bigouden...