Hotel reopenings in 2025: addresses undergoing a makeover
Between in-depth renovations and new vocations, the year 2025 will see many French hotels rise from the ashes. From family homes transformed into intimate palaces to legendary addresses reinventing themselves, each project promises new encounters with travelers.
Hotels & Bed & Breakfast
Hotel reopenings in 2025: addresses undergoing a makeover
Between in-depth renovations and new vocations, the year 2025 will see many French hotels rise from the ashes. From family homes transformed into intimate palaces to legendary addresses reinventing themselves, each project promises new encounters with travelers.
News & Events
Hostellerie Briqueterie, the 5-star Champagne refuge
A member of the ultra-chic Beauvallon collection, this historic address has been restored to its former glory, combining contemporary refinement with multiple tributes to the spirit of the place, in the heart of Champagne's most prestigious vineyards.
When chefs take to the high seas
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Singapore, the food fan zone
Morning, noon and night - in fact, at any time of day - you'll find something to satisfy your appetite in Singapore. Gastro, bistro, tradi, cuisines from all over the world... there's something for every taste and every budget, and in a single day you can shamelessly move from street food to world-renowned gourmet restaurants. Immerse yourself in a cosmopolitan city-state, where eating is a leisure activity that everyone, whatever their status, takes very seriously.
In the depths of winter, at dusk, only the lights of shop windows seem able to warm up the Rue Ramponeau, in the 20th arrondissement of Paris. One of them frames a neat row of bottles, a constant feature of the eastern Paris substrate. Slender glass bottles stand out by their labels alone, in a flash of bold colors. In fact, an imperceptible difference at a glance separates them: some contain no alcohol.
Benoît d'Onofrio, known as sobrelier, opened his Sobrellerie in October 2024, declining the neologism. A place to eat and drink, notably around his fermented beverage confections, which he had previously reserved for the menus of culinary residences.
Moving into the small room towards the stainless steel kitchen, a series of jars stand side by side like penguins on an ice floe. A scotch announces: Squash - persimmon - chicory - rice - sweet clover. "Funny, one started fermenting faster than its neighbor, even though it's the exact same batch," observes Benoît, his childlike eyes level with the surface.
Benoît starts his fermentations without mother (unlike kombucha), grains (unlike kefir) or added sugar. Only the micro-organisms present on organic fruit and vegetables are put into action, according to the variations of the season or the conditions of the day. Immediately, the smell of pumpkin seeds fills every corner of the room from the oven, just about the only source of electricity used in production.
at the other end of the prism, the juicy non-alcoholic market, increasingly taken over by major brands, relies for the most part on costly industrial processes to deal with the dealcoholization of wines, beers and spirits.
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Extraction, racking, pressing
To avoid producing alcohol in his beverages, Benoît keeps a close eye on the natural sugars that can initiate this transformation. The challenge is to dilute their ardor without losing taste. Benoît crushes by hand to gently extract aromas and matter, macerates, racking, pressing and gravity-filtering. So many borrowings from the world of wine, his frame of reference. From now on, discussions with his winegrower and winemaker customers will focus on technical subtleties. "I'm confronted with similar problems, with deviances such as volatile acidity or oxidation".
Nevertheless, the liquid rosé and then the second coppery one he pours into the stemmed glasses in front of him are not presented as alcohol-free wines. "I refuse to value a drink for what it doesn't have. That's the game of the de-alcoholized market, but my aim is not to make people think they're drinking wine. These beverages belong by the plate for what they are. Moreover, the sommelier is not historically bound to spirits, but to all beverages, from water to coffee."
Wandering aromas
on the back of the vintage bottles laid out on the table, the labels bring together a dozen or so ingredients, as if drawn at random from a hat (from muscat grapes to roasted bread to watermelon). The only purpose of detail is transparency: "Two markets are facing each other: the wine industry, which is struggling economically, and another that is banging on about alcohol, but is not obliged to detail the composition of its products, nor the quality of the raw materials,nor the bubbles.nor the quality of the raw materials, nor the artificial bubbles, nor the extravagant real sugar contents", says the sobrelier, convinced that there is room for everyone and no barbed wire.
He dips his nose into the first glass, and is moved: "Three months later, the beet has taken center stage, underscoring the evolving nature of the beverages. The cuvée has a vinous density and lingers with a vegetal bitterness perfumed with thyme and citrus.
next to it, the second beverage has a line of acidity running through it in a plump sip. It suggests warm spices, cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom, even though none of these ingredients were used in this recipe based on apple, melon and herbs, all sourced from the same market-garden farm. Through fermentation, the elements melt aromatically or wander. "For example, the tarragon used can easily evoke licorice," he explains.
"The richness of a drink is not based on alcohol or sugar. It's the fermentation that matters, its ability to create an aromatic whole, a subtle acidity, a perception of deep salinity." And to take it further than grapes or other basic botanicals, a familiar concept in well-born bottles.
Benoît d'Onofrio's three recommendations for living fermented beverages:
Atelier Particulier de Fermentation, Elsa Steullet
11h11 Fermentations
Ô de Fleurs, Stéphanie Cohen
The history of crème brûlée and our best addresses
A lightly crunchy caramelized surface, crème brûlée sometimes invites fantasy. Traditionally made with vanilla, Chefs are not lacking in imagination when it comes to offering multiple variations. Gault&Millau shares its history and the best addresses of the moment.
Solar salt workers
For nearly a decade, Matthieu Le Chantoux has been producing and harvesting salt in the Mès basin, in the picturesque setting of the Guérande salt marshes. An independent salt worker and producer-harvester, he launched L'Atelier du Sel in 2013 with his uncle, then continued the business with Hughes Martineau, his cousin. In keeping with the tradition of salt workers, ancestral gestures and know-how are perpetuated, as is the pride of offering a natural product harvested by hand, using artisanal methods.
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