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Wines & Spirits
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Competition "bio
The 26th Concours International des Vins Organiques et en Conversion took place on Monday May 9 in Paris. The program featured 634 organic wine samples from 13 countries around the world. This international competition, founded in 1996 by Pierre Guigui, a member of the Gault&Millau tasting committee, aims to highlight organic, biodynamic and in-conversion wines. Since this year, it has been organized by Armonia, a company specializing in the organization of wine and spirits competitions. 200 medals were awarded by the jury, which included Gaul&Millau. Among the gold medal winners, we have selected a few whites and reds that are a must-taste.
NEWS
Wines & Spirits
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Competition "bio
The 26th Concours International des Vins Organiques et en Conversion took place on Monday May 9 in Paris. The program featured 634 organic wine samples from 13 countries around the world. This international competition, founded in 1996 by Pierre Guigui, a member of the Gault&Millau tasting committee, aims to highlight organic, biodynamic and in-conversion wines. Since this year, it has been organized by Armonia, a company specializing in the organization of wine and spirits competitions. 200 medals were awarded by the jury, which included Gaul&Millau. Among the gold medal winners, we have selected a few whites and reds that are a must-taste.
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Craftsmen & Know-How
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The strawberry plant
A symbol of sunny days, the emblematic strawberry cake is making a comeback in shop windows and is even taking pride of place on the menus of luxury hotels. For the record, a similar cake was first created by Escoffier at the end of the 19th century, then by Pierre Lacam in the 1900s, who designed a "fraisier des bois" with sponge cake and a hint of kirsch. But it wasn't until 1966 that Gaston Lenôtre created a strawberry cake with sponge cake punched with kirsch, buttercream and fresh strawberries, then christened "Bagatelle", in reference to the gardens. Here's a family portrait of a cake with well-defined codes, but no shortage of interpretations!
Interview with Jean-François Pantaleon - Roza
Portrait of Jean-François Pantaleon, chef at Roza restaurant in Nantes.
That's right, it's 4 o'clock!
Bis-Cuit, because cooked twice! They date back to the Middle Ages, and for centuries were the staple food of sailors and soldiers, prepared from flour, water and eggs, then cooked twice for better preservation. Nowadays, they're often referred to as industrial dry cookies (Prince, BN, Pépito and Petit Beurre), but patissiers have happily drawn their inspiration from them to concoct their homemade versions of haute gourmandise!
Cherry time
Round and shiny, ranging in color from blood-red to the lightest orange, sweet but also sometimes tart and sour, often coming in pairs, cherries catch everyone's eye... And awaken the sweet tooth, as well as childhood memories.
Tableware: publishers turning the tables
Smaller companies are taking the tableware sector by storm, dusting off styles, approaches and practices. Meet five 100% committed players...
The revival of the Champagne hillsides
Coteaux-Champenois are the bubble-free face of Champagne. Still wines, as the winemakers call them, "natural champagne" wines, as they used to say...champagne wines, quite simply. To be discovered or rediscovered as a matter of urgency.
Occitanie
Gault&Millau Tour Occitanie 2022
The event
On Monday, May 23, 2022, Gault&Millau honored the region's chefs and culinary professionals at the presentation of its latest guide to the Occitanie region.
The event took place in Castelnau-le-Lez, near Montpellier, at the Domaine de Verchant.
The patron chef: Michel Kayser
The son of shopkeepers, Michel Kayser grew up in Bitche, Moselle, nurtured by his paternal grandmother, a fine cook with whom he tasted the joys of fine family cooking. Not necessarily keen on classical studies, he joined Pierre Sternjacob as an apprentice at his restaurant in Union, Moselle. The job appealed to him, the long days didn't frighten him and, at just 18, he joined the Bourgogne in Evian, his first experience in a fine gourmet restaurant. He then moved on to Paris, Courchevel, Palavas-les-Flots, Strasbourg... all the while rapidly maturing the project of setting up his own business with his wife, Monique Luya.
The couple set their sights on Pierre Alexandre's restaurant in Garons. A little less than twenty years later, he received an 18/20 rating! What a career!
Restaurant Alexandre, 4 toques in Garons
Celebrating regional talent
Gault&Millau d'Or: Franck Putelat
Recognized, respected and even admired for his action, energy and success, his foresight and entrepreneurial spirit, Franck Putelat has matured even further. His cuisine is not afraid to show its roots or its traditional French and regional standards.
La Table de Franck Putelat, 4 toques in Carcassonne
Young Talent" Trophy: Clément Briand-Seurat
Having worked at Gilles Goujon's Fontjoncouse and Burgundy restaurants in Paris, Clément is now back in Montpellier, where he enjoys a convivial atmosphere, a large rustic buffet and excellent, mostly local, sourcing.
Le Pic Saint-Loup, 2 toques, Les Matelles
Grand de Demain" Trophy: Quentin Pellestor-Veyrier
With his solid-gold CV, Quentin Pellestor-Veyrier is sure to impress: Trained by Franck Putelat, he spent some time at Fontjoncouse, with Gilles Goujon, before taking a turn with Alain Ducasse, at the Dorchester, in London, then at Le Meurice, in Paris... and coming to head up this table in Béziers, under the guidance of the pope of Fontjoncouse...
L'Alter/Native, 3 toques in Béziers
Techniques d'Excellence" trophy: Michel Truchon
The son of a cook, Michel Truchon has good food and good cooking running through his veins. This discreet chef, who loves the markets of his region, doesn't beat the drum or the trumpet, but cooks with the same sincerity.
Le Sénéchal, 3 toques in Sauveterre-du-Rouergue
Cuisine de la Mer" Trophy: Boris Caillol
Boris Caillol, who trained with some of the greatest chefs in the world (along with his partner), continues to prove at this Montpellier restaurant that he has the energy and talent to go far.
Ebullition, 2 toques in Montpellier
Pâtissier" trophy: Boris Chapon
Boris Chapon worked in some of the world's top establishments (including Michel Kayser's) before returning home to open his own restaurant in Alès. This is his first Gault&Millau award, and we're betting it won't be his last!
Lou Bi, 2 toques in Alès
Terroir d'Exception" Trophy: Grégory Doucey
We were won over by this young chef's incredible energy and determination. The team he has put together and the dishes he prepares are in a class of their own.
In-Fine, 2 toques in Frontignan
Home" Trophy: Jonathan Coute
We first met Jonathan Coute at Michel Kayser, in a role as front-of-house manager which he carried off with gusto, discernment and ease, adapting to each table and approaching the top level with rare loquaciousness and empathy. We find him again in this 100% family project with just as much drive!
Menna, 2 toques in Nîmes
Sommelier" trophy: Suzanne Cochran
The daughter and granddaughter of winegrowers, Suzanne Cochran moved away from the wine world before returning to it. Having worked at the Crillon in Paris, David Toutain in Paris and Vincent Favre-Félix in Annecy, Suzanne Cochran now finds herself in the surprising and touching kitchen of Georgiana Viou.
Rouge, 2 toques in Nîmes
Tradition d'Aujourd'hui" Trophy: Bernard Bordaries
At the piano of this restaurant since 1999, chef Bernard Bordaries cultivates both modesty and excellence. An excellence that should be rewarded and applauded with both hands!
Le Clos Monteils, 2 toques Monteils
Jeune Talent en Salle" trophy: Fatou Ngom and Baptiste Vergès-Barre
A local institution brilliantly led by chef Mickaël Meunier. It was absolutely essential to reward this service, which is young rather than diligent, available and smiling, led by this duo.
La Villa Duflot, 2 toques in Perpignan
Eloquence" trophy: Alan Rivière
When you're in the dining room, you have to know how to explain and convince. All the more so when it's a gluten-free table, as desugared and defatted as possible. Alan Rivière certainly has a flair for the formula.
Reflet d'Obione, 2toques in Montpellier
Thanks to our Partners :
Self-made chef, David Polin
At the head of the Montmartre bistro Le Bon, la Butte, David Polin prepares lively, gourmet and generous cuisine. Before becoming a chef, this former sound engineer took his microphones around the globe for documentaries and broadcasts, often dealing with cuisine...
Self-made chef, Alan Geaam
Not a single article mentions that he is self-taught. After a singular journey that took him from Liberia to Lebanon and the United States, Alan Geaam landed in Paris, where he found a job as a dishwasher. The rest is history: he took the chef's place at the drop of a hat, taught himself the basics of cooking and, finally, successfully opened his own restaurants.
Professor David Khayat no longer goes without
Oncologist, former president of the Institut national du cancer and former head of department at the Pitié-Salpêtrière hospital, Professor David Khayat's latest essay, Arrêtez de vous priver (Stop Depriving Yourself), is an invitation to take the guilt out of eating at the table and enjoying life's pleasures. Interview with a connoisseur of fine wines about wine, abuse and global warming.
Self-made chef, Georgiana Viou
Self-taught. Being a chef and not having studied for it. To have followed another path before understanding, before knowing, that this is the job you really want to do. Even if they are not in the majority, some have arrived in the kitchen at the end of a winding or atypical path. Is this a strength or a handicap? That's what we set out to find out from Georgiania Viou, Grand de Demain 2022 Gault&Millau. Even if she has succeeded, the term "self-taught" still sticks to her.
Interview with Alexandre Pichard - Art'N Blum
Portrait of Alexandre Pichard, chef at Art'N Blum in Nantes.
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